THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF 1.3 10-06-91 [REPLACES TBBOM12.ZIP/ TBBOM12.TXT] Copyright 10/06/91 by CHAOS Indus. All Rights Reserved with 3 exceptions: UNLIMITED Distribution in cybernetic media of an UNMODIFIED copy of this document is allowed, with the following exceptions: 1. If a FEE is charged for access to this file or for downloading in general , the authors must receive 25% of such fee or $19.95, whichever is greater. 2. This document may NOT be distributed via COMPUSERVE. 3. Users are allowed to make no more than two (2) complete and unmodified hardcopy versions of this file for personal use. If you did NOT receive this file in the form of a 98K ZIP file, it is likely that you do not have a complete copy. To obtain one, send E-mail to the addresses mentioned below. Fine bound softcover versions of this document will be made available in late winter 1991. To get one of this limited signed and numbered edition, send $19.95 + 5.50 S&H to: BOX 438, 71 E. 32nd St. Chicago, IL 60616 Make all checks and money orders payable to: LASERSCRIBE, INC. Preface 10/5/91- Editing of the file is assumed by Vlad Tepes. Plans are currently being made to convert the character graphics to bitmaps, as well as plans for eventual hardcopy distribution. Updates will be distributed on the RIPCO BBS at (312) 528-5020 and over the USENET via the rec.pyrotechnics newsgroup. By version 1.5 I hope to have .GIF files to replace the current character graphics, and to have removed all duplicate entries. Note from the Editor: To make suggestions, corrections, or to submit new information, send mail to: to DAVID RICHARDS on the RIPCO BBS, or: cshawk_pro38@iitvax.iit.edu cshawk_pro38@iitvax.bitnet Please refer to any items by section number or EXACT section heading. Note from the author: Remember, the First Amendment is not a shield. Care must be taken to ensure that no law is broken when information is gained or divulged. I have read every word of this file, and swear that no article of this document is illegal in any way. REVISION HISTORY 1987-1989 Compilation of original file Early 1990 Original file lost in crash August 8, 1990 File reborn as The Compleat Terrorist Today, August 8th, 1990, at 1 AM, I found a copy of The Terrorist's Handbook on a BBS, and recombined it with some other G-files. March 31, 1991 In February, I had a major loss of data, but regained TCT from a local BBS. I did some cosmetic work and killed some redundancies, and renamed the file to TBBOM. Total file size is now about 172 printed pages. (You may wish to print this file out and bind it) April 12, 1991 File revised by Vlad Tepes on Ripco II. Some deletions and many valuable additions. I (The Editor) felt that the file should have version numbers, so, in light of the additions by Vlad Tepes, the first volume number is 1.1. July 29, 1991 Revisions and addenda by Vlad Tepes. A revision is a change in the information (The original text is immediately followed by the new information) and an addendum refers to new information. October 6, 1991 Vlad Tepes assumes the job of co-author/editor. A few neccessary deletions are made, as well as minor cosmetic changes and additions. begin "THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF" PART 1 - The Terrorist's Handbook - Self explanatory. THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK 1.0 INTRODUCTION Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is proud to present this revised edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First and foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities for any use of the information presented in this publication. The purpose of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in this and other countries who employ terror as a means to acheive political and social goals. The techniques described here may be found in public libraries, and can often be carried out by a terrorist with minimal resources. The processes and techniques herein SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH COULD RESULT FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. ALTHOUGH ALL EFFORTS HAVE BEEN MADE TO INSURE ACCURACY THIS IS MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!! We feel that it is important that everyone has some idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is the justification for the existence of this publication. 1.1 Table of Contents 컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� 2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS 2.01 ........ Black Powder 2.02 ........ Pyrodex 2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder 2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder 2.05 ........ Flash Powder 2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS 2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks 2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY 2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS 2.31 ........ Nitric Acid 2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid 2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES 3.01 ........ Explosive Theory 3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES 3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals 3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate 3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine 3.14 ........ Picrates 3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES 3.21 ........ Black Powder 3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose 3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures 3.24 ........ Perchlorates 3.25 ........ Flash Powder 3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES 3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite) 3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 3.33 ........ ANFOS 3.34 ........ T.N.T. 3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate 3.36 ........ Dynamite 3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives 3.38 ........ Picric Acid 3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) 3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride 3.41 ........ Lead Azide 3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" 3.51 ........ Thermite 3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails 3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle 3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives 3.6 ......... Dry Ice 4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES 4.1 ....... SAFETY 4.11 ........ How Not To Get Killed 4.12 ........ Guidelines For Production 4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES 4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition 4.22 ........ Impact Ignition 4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition 4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition 4.241 ....... Mercury Switches 4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches 4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators 4.3 ....... DELAYS 4.31 ........ Fuse Delays 4.32 ........ Timer Delays 4.33 ........ Chemical Delays 4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS 4.41 ........ Paper Containers 4.42 ........ Metal Containers 4.43 ........ Glass Containers 4.44 ........ Plastic Containers 4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES 4.51 ........ Shaped Charges 4.52 ........ Tube Explosives 4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions 4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs 4.55 ........ Book Bombs 4.56 ........ Phone Bombs 5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS 5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) 5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition 5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition 5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition 5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) 5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition 5.22 ........ Shotguns 5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) 5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition 5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition 6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS 6.1 ....... ROCKETS 6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb 6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb 6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs 6.2 ........ CANNONS 6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon 6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon 6.23 ........ Reinforced Pipe Cannon 7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA 7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs 7.2 ......... Colored Flames 7.3 ......... Tear Gas 7.4 ......... Fireworks 7.41 ........ Firecrackers 7.42 ........ Skyrockets 7.43 ........ Roman Candles 8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION 9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS 10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY 11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR 2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or more pharmacies. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. 2.01 BLACK POWDER Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed below: GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN 컴컴� 컴컴컴컴컴 컴컴컴컴컴컴컴 F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a one would use a plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Any adult can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms in the United States. 2.02 PYRODEX Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried. 2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the gray fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain in the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder. 2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Smokeless gunpowder is made by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some other cellulose material. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with smokeless gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large and small grained smokeless powder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for smokeless powder. owder costs about $9.00 per pound. In most states any citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are currently few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. There are now ID checks in many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet. Mail-orders aren't subject to such checks. Rifle powder and pyrodex may be purchased by mail order, but UPS charges will be high, due to DOT regulations on packaging. 2.05 FLASH POWDER Flash powder is a mixture of powdered aluminum metal and various oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. Flash powder is often made with aluminum and/or magnesium. Zirconium metal is the main ingredient in flash BULBS, but is too expensive to be used in most flash powder mixtures. 2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro- glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold- Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers. 2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most of the labs will still be unlocked. 2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks. These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing the latch back into the door. Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be slipped. (Ill. 2.11) ___ | } < Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger second |___} < finger Some methods for getting through locked doors are: 1) Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings, and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards. 2) use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but then why bother to slip the lock at all? 3) Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far enough to slip. 4) If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make it much easier to pick. 5) If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door opens outward), remove the hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with welded tabs). Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its effectiveness. 6) If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly, break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to make the first finger retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g., Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially, yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/.... 7) Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared critical resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a micrometer works best: keys made from mic measurements are more likely to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed. 8) Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up, additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it generally takes a *lot* of patience. 9) Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take breaks. Make the most of your opportunities. 10) No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups at 3 AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually *like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any theft or break-ins reported there the next day... 11) Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those places you're *really* curious about. 12) Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.) 2.11.1 SLIPPING A LOCK The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs, etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't leave home without one. (Ill. 2.11.1 #1) The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that looks like this: ________________________________________ /________________________________________| | | | | L-shaped | | | | |_| (Ill. 2.11.1 #2) _____________________________ / ___________________________| | | | | J-shaped | | | |________ \________| (Ill. 2.11.1 #3) _____________________ / ___________________| | | | | | | U-shaped | | | |____________________ \____________________| We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys. At most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.] we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey. 2.11.2 OPENING MASTER "WARDED" LOCKS (by Vlad Tepes) These are the lock with the keys that look like this: (Ill. 2.11.2 #1) _ _ / \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \ \_/ [] [] [] [] Just file the key down so it looks like this: (Ill. 2.11.2 #2) _ _ / \___________[] A cross section looks like this: ~~~~~ \_/ [] Now you can bypass the wards... sometimes you have to pull the key up and down, turning as you pass each block, to find the internal lever that will release the latch. It's possible that some of the newer locks have more than one lever, which makes the process much more difficult. 2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. Chemical Used In Available at ________ _______ ____________ alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops (The Alley at Belmont/Clark, Chgo) magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores mercury mercury thermometers supermarkets, hardware stores sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores glycerine pharmacies/drug stores sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets gardening stores sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store cellulose (cotton) first aid drug medical supply stores strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, potassium permanganate water purification purification plants hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores methenamine (camping) nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops plates photography stores Iodine disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores (VERY impure) for cutting torches ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to. 2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS While many chemicals are not easily available in their pure form, it is sometimes possible for the home chemist to purify more easily available sources of impure forms of desired chemicals. 2.31 NITRIC ACID There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! Materials: Equipment: 컴컴컴컴� 컴컴컴컴� sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source potassium nitrate retort distilled water ice bath concentrated sulfuric acid stirring rod collecting flask with stopper 1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. 2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. 3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the collecting flask in the ice bath. 4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away from it. Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. 2.32 SULFURIC ACID Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil. 2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the remaining water. 3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually scaled-down industrial procedures. 3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which may do both. High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives. Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order explosives. Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as mercury fulminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer. 3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. 3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or heated. Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner: Materials Equipment 컴컴컴컴� 컴컴컴컴� iodine crystals funnel and filter paper paper towels clear ammonia (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars for the suicidal) 1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. 2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. 3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone into the funnel. 4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. 5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. 6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into eight pieces of about the same size. 7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or crushed. 3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably use the following procedure: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT 컴컴컴컴� 컴컴컴컴� 5 g mercury glass stirring rod 35 ml concentrated 100 ml beaker (2) nitric acid ethyl alcohol (30 ml) adjustable heat source distilled water blue litmus paper funnel and filter paper Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and other less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. 1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, using the glass rod. 2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the solution turns green and boils. 3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. 4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the distilled water to the solution. 5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and toxic. 6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the wet crystals 7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from any explosive or flammable material. This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of ethanol to every one volume of mercury. 3.13 NITROGLYCERINE Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: MATERIAL EQUIPMENT 컴컴컴컴 컴컴컴컴� distilled water eye-dropper table salt 100 ml beaker sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) concentrated nitric ice bath container acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer acid (39 ml) glycerine blue litmus paper 1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. 2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some remains undissolved. 3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall temperature. 4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less. 5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good idea to start another ice bath to do this. 6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, WATCH OUT !! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in small quantities. 7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. 8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid- water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine. 9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. 10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place. 3.14 PICRATES Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive. 3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order explosives. 3.21 BLACK POWDER First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT 컴컴컴컴� 컴컴컴컴� potassium clay grinding bowl nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder or or sodium wooden salad bowl nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) distilled water coffee pot or heat source 1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. 2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic bag. 3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. 4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. 5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water. 6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity. 3.22 NITROCELLULOSE Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT 컴컴컴컴� 컴컴컴컴� cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers concentrated funnel and filter paper nitric acid blue litmus paper concentrated sulfuric acid distilled water 1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid. 2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes. 3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to wash it in. 4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. 5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and stored. 3.22.1 PRODUCING CELLULOSE NITRATE (From andrew at CMU) I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I didn't have oleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated, cheap and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3 and a little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so little water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool or cotton cloth. Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disasterous with nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerine. For some reason, I tried washing the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled water. I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?) When that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. BTW, water quenched the runaway reaction of cellulose. The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether. WARNINGS All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in the process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply. Not for the novice. Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage if it isn't stablized. The decomposition is auto- catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if the material is kept confined over time. The process is much faster if the material is not washed well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture the small amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They therefore inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case. Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it. 3.22.2 Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by: 1. Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is recycled. 2. Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water. 3. Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water. If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution, then rinsed in fresh water. The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced. There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed. (Ill. 3.22.2) CH OH CH ONO | 2 | 2 2 | | C-----O HNO C-----O /H \ 3 /H \ -CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O- \H H/ H SO \H H/ C-----C 2 4 C-----C | | | | OH OH ONO ONO 2 2 CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE 3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes ================================================================================ potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact sensitive; unstable potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; charcoal 15% unstable potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely magnesium or unstable! aluminum dust 25% potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable aluminum dust 33% sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable sulfur 5% burn rate potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before ignition depends WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable magnesium or aluminum dust 20% potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is sulfur 10% black powder! potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot or magnesium 40% Oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes ================================================================================ potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for and small amount of space shuttle iron oxide potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder (sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate (sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder sulfur 20% barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate aluminum dust 5% flash powder potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly magnesium or unstable aluminum dust 25% potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; aluminum or ignites if magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable sulfur 10% ================================================================================ NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of burning. As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the mixture. 3.24 PERCHLORATES As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be treated with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide are ideal. 3.25 FLASH POWDER (By Dr. Tiel) Here are a few basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to produce your own flash powder: (1) Grind the oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc) separately in a clean vessel. (2) NEVER grind or sift the mixed composition. (3) Mix the composition on a large paper sheet, by rolling the composition back and forth. (4) Do not store flash compositions, especially any containing Mg. (5) Make very small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the power of such mixtures. KNO3 50% (by weight) Mg 50% It is very important to have the KNO3 very dry, if evolution of ammonia is observed then the KNO3 has water in it. Very pure and dry KNO3 is needed. KClO3 with Mg or Al metal powders works very well. Many hands, faces and lives have been lost with such compositions. KMnO4 with Mg or Al is also an extremely powerful flash composition. KClO4 with Al is generally found in comercial fireworks, this does not mean that it is safe, it is a little safer than KClO3 above. K2Cr2O7 can also be used as an oxidizer for flash powder. The finer the oxidizer and the finer the metal powder the more powerful the explosive. This of course will also increase the sensetivity of the flash powder. For a quick flash small quantities can be burnt in the open. Larger quantities (50g or more) ignited in the open can detonate, they do not need a container to do so. NOTE: Flash powder in any container will detonate. Balanced equations of some oxidizer/metal reactions. Only major products are considered. Excess metal powders are generally used. This excess burns with atmospheric oxygen. 4 KNO3 + 10 Mg --> 2 K2O + 2 N2 + 10 MgO + energy KClO3 + 2 Al --> KCl + Al2O3 + energy 3 KClO4 + 8 Al --> 3 KCl + 4 Al2O3 + energy 6 KMnO4 + 14 Al --> 3 K2O + 7 Al2O3 + 6 Mn + energy Make Black Powder first if you have never worked with pyrotechnic materials, then think about this stuff. Dr. Van Tiel- Ph.D. Chemistry Potassium perchlorate is a lot safer than sodium/potassium chlorate. 3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES High order explosives can be made in the home without too much difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. 3.31 R.D.X. R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. (Ill. 3.31) NO 2 | N / \ RDX MOLECULE / \ H C H C / 2 2 / | O N N--NO 2 \ / 2 \ / \ / CH 2 R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium nitrate. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT 컴컴컴컴� 컴컴컴컴� hexamine 500 ml beaker or methenamine glass stirring rod fuel tablets (50 g) funnel and filter paper concentrated nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container (plastic bucket) distilled water centigrade thermometer table salt blue litmus paper ice ammonium nitrate 1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. 2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture. 3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes 4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid. 5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and safe. 6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. 7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic bag. This is one way to desensitize the explosive. 8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. 9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X. 10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. 3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the haphazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The diagram below will explain. (Ill. 3.32) _________________________________________ | |__ | ________|_ | | | | T.N.T. | ammonium nitrate | |primer |booster | + | |________| | fuel oil | | __| | |_______|_______________________________| The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. 3.33 ANFOS ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large shockwave to set it off. 3.33.1 About ANFO (From Dean S.) Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being the fact that it is cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. To keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk truck, which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (thats pellets to most of the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a dye of some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer. ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO. Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives, dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive. The need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water susceptable. It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from the atmosphere, and becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no good, and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low. Generally, the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more effective. ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it is places, raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds to the cost, and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some commercial, cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises power considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive. Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends a AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More oil makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and excess fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazzards as the mixture is oxygen poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as the porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with various materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from being absorbed. Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement, either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus, a pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite well. So will big piles. Thats how the explosive potential was discovered: a small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big bang. A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel oil with a wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a cohesive mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture. This is what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The military literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it is important to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more powerful than commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability, and thus a strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They also tend to go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but then hey, who doesn't.... Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This is a $60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. Incidently, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need a liscence to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old folks homes, okay. D. S.- Civil Engineer at large. 3.34 T.N.T. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it is filtered. 3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making such an explosive is outlined below: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT 컴컴컴컴� 컴컴컴컴� potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag (9 parts, by volume) petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl (vaseline) or (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon 1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. 2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. 3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. 4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. 3.36 DYNAMITE The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. 3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are more readily detonated. 3.38 PICRIC ACID Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT 컴컴컴컴� 컴컴컴컴� phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask concentrated adjustable heat source sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) 1000 ml beaker concentrated nitric or other container acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in distilled water filter paper and funnel glass stirring rod 1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. 2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and bring the water to a gentle boil. 3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes. 4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath. 5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. 6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice bath until it is cold. 7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive. 8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. 9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. 10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode spontaneously. 3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate. 3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to produce. 1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. 2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass pipe. 3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating flask in another flask that contains water. 4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. 3.41 LEAD AZIDE Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. 3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. 3.51 THERMITE Thermite is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat energy produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around. MATERIALS 컴컴컴컴� powdered aluminum (10 g) powdered iron oxide (10 g) 1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermite. Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts. 2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of potassium chlorate to the thermite, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The other method of igniting thermite is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can be ignited. 3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame. Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown 3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT 컴컴컴컴� 컴컴컴컴� potassium chlorate 12 oz.glass bottle (2 teaspoons) sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels glass or plastic cup and spoon 1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. 2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. 3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry. 4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. 5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to dry. 6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. 7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface. 8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. 9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame. 3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely. During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used to detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation. Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed in a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding rooms, rendering it structurally unsound. 3.6 Fun with dry ice... LOTS of fun with dry ice. (from the Usenet.) There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is as follows: Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4 Lb of Dry Ice (crushed works best) and (optional) a quantity of water. Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount and temperature of the bottle the bomb will go off in 30 seconds - 5 minutes. Without any water added, the 2-liter bottles will go often in 3-7 minutes if dropped into a warm river, and in 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours in open air. The explosion sounds equivalent to an M-100. _Plastic_ 16 oz. soda bottles and 1 liter bottles work almost as well as do the 2-liters, however glass bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce dangerous shrapnel. Remember, these are LOUD! Dorian, a classmate of mine, set up 10 bottles in a nearby park without adding water. After the first two went off (there was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and spent the next hour trying to find the guy who they thought was setting off M-100's all around them... USES FOR DRY ICE Time Bombs: 1. Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). A film canister would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair amount of effort to open). Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite sealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your back. Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then leave. Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear a loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when the CO2 pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid. In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will proabably never figure out what made the noise. 2. Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as many chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on the cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. After about a minute (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will result, spraying water everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter bottle. More things to do with Dry Ice: Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you chuck it into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really impressive if the water is warm enough "Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..." "You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you KEEP IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire." Editor's Note: Dry ice can be a lot of fun, but be forewarned: Using anything but plastic to contain dry ice bombs is suicidal. Dry ice is more dangerous than TNT, because it's extremely unpredictable. Even a 2-liter bottle can produce some nasty shrapnel: One source tells me that he caused an explosion with a 2-liter bottle that destroyed a metal garbage can. In addition, it is rumored that several kids have been killed by shards of glass resulting from the use of a glass bottle. For some reason, dry ice bombs have become very popular in the state of Utah. As a result, dry ice bombs have been classified as infernal devices, and possession is a criminal offense. 4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism, to assassination. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next section. 4.1 SAFETY There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. 4.11 HOW NOT TO GET KILLED (Ways to avoid scoring an "Own Goal") An "own goal" is the death of a person on your side from one of your own devices. It is obvious that these should be avoided at all costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to err on the side of caution. BASIC SAFETY RULES 1) DON'T SMOKE! (don't laugh- an errant cigarette wiped out the Weathermen) 2) GRIND ALL INGREDIENTS SEPERATELY. It's suprising how friction sensitive some supposedly "safe" explosives really are. 3) ALLOW for a 20% margin of error- Just because the AVERAGE burning rate of a fuse is 30 secs/foot, don't depend on the 5 inches sticking out of your pipe bomb to take exactly 2.5 minutes. 4) OVERESTIMATE THE RANGE OF YOUR SHRAPNEL. The cap from a pipe bomb can oftentravel a block or more at high velocities before coming to rest- If you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can kill you. 5) When mixing sensitive compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of static electricity. Mix the ingredients by the method below: 4.12 HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as the small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do: Ingredients: 1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does not use staples) The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound. 1) Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet. 2) Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders to roll towards the middle of the sheet. 3) By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth in the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill from either of the loose ends. 4) Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If it must be stored use airtight containers (35mm film canisters work nicely) and store away from people, houses, and valuable items. 4.2 IGNITION DEVICES There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would be easier to hide. 4.21 FUSE IGNITION The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length. Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. One such method is described below: MATERIALS _________ strike-on-cover type matches electrical tape or duct tape waterproof fuse 1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below: Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of combustion is 20 seconds. 20 seconds / 8 inches = 2.5 seconds per inch. If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired time by the number of seconds per inch: 10 seconds / 2.5 seconds per inch = 4 inches NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! 2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off. 3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter. 4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move. 5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. (Ill. 4.21) _____________________ \ / \ / ------ match book cover \ / | M|f|M ---|------- match head | A|u|A | | T|s|T | | C|e|C | |tapeH|.|Htape| | |f| | |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper |#####|s|#####| \ |e| / \ |.| / \ |f| / \ |u| / |ta|s|pe| |ta|e|pe| |.| |f| |u| |s| |e| |.| |_| The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled. 6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the burning match heads. 4.21.1 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room temperatures. Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry. 4.21.2 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees. It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden. It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning times. 4.22 IMPACT IGNITION Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a removable impact initiator. The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: (Ill. 4.22) ________________ | | _ | | | | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| _______| |^^^^^^^| | ___________| | | no. 11 |_______| percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing cap : here |__________ nipple onto bomb |____ | | |^^^^^^^^^| |_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| | | |_________________| When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard. 4.22.1 MAGICUBE IGNITOR A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact iniator can be produced from the common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has a small metal rod holding it in place. CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB. Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the plastic can be easily peeled away. The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thich glue-like paste. Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the remainder then ignition should be very reliable. To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air the appropriate end will hit the ground first. 4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, however, military explosive squibs which will do the job. Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order explosive. 4.23.1 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE (By Capt. Hack & GW) Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite. 4.23.2 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. A single flashlight battery will set this off. 4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed 4.24.1 Mercury Switches Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch. (Ill. 4.24.1) ______________ A / \ B _____wire +______/_________ \ \ ( Hg )| / \ _(_Hg___)|___/ | | wire - | | | When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can touch both contacts in the horizontal position. If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or squib in an explosive device. 4.24.2 Tripwire Switches A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to explode. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since the spring also conducts electricity. 4.243 Radio Control Detonators In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the device became a detonator). 4.3 DELAYS A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it does. 4.31 FUSE DELAYS It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the hole formed. (Ill 4.31) |=| |=| ---------- filter |=| | | | | |o| ---------- hole for fuse cigarette ------------ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_| ---------- light this end 4.31.1 IMPROVED CIGARETTE DELAY (By Atur {THE pyromaniac }) A variation on the standard cigarette display was invented by my good friend Atur (THE Pyromaniac). Rather than inserting the fuse into the SIDE of the cigarette (and risk splitting it) half of the filter is cut off, and a small hole is punched THROUGH the remainder of the filter and into the tobacco. (Ill. 4.31.1) --------------------------------- |FIL|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco fusefusefusefuse Tobacco Tobacco side view |TER|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco --------------------------------- ___ / \ | o | filter end view \___/ (artwork by The Author) The fuse is inserted as far as possible into this hole, then taped or glued in place, or the cigarette can be cut and punched ahead of time and lit normally, then attached to the fuse at the scene. A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible. 4.32 TIMER DELAYS Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is desired. The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would not have to be stepped up. 4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on England. The delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days after the initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British citizenry. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container. (Ill. 4.33) _ _ | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_____________| | | | | | | | sulfuric | | | | | | | | acid | | | | | |---------- aluminum foil | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) |_________________| The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways. 1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the acid. 2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite. 3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. 4.331 MORE SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting supply. METHOD # 1 Scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl alcohol.