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          @DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD: PyroTechnics I-IV :DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDY

                            HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM<



>From sender:

       "This is Part I-IV of a series of four files I acquired some time ago.

They seem fairly well-written, and although I admit I've never concocted

anything from these files, local Chem. Engineering majors assure me that

the ideas are more than fiction.  If any of you download more than one of

these files, you will notice a fairly long set of safeguards at the beginning

of each file.  This list is identical on each file, but I ask that it -not-

be deleted or modified for obvious reasons.

        Not really knowing the legal bearing on this, I hereby absolve myself

of all responsibility of the consequences of following the directions on these

files.  IMHO, anyone who is capable of using a mainframe system has enough

grey matter to decide what is dangerous and what isn't when using pyrotechnics.

        Me, I've nowhere near enough experience in the field, and wouldn't

touch the ingredients with a eighty foot pole.  I will refrain from posting

files 2, 3 and 4 until I get some public response.  I will or will not post

the rest based on the responses I receive.  Either way, enjoy, and don't do

something stupid like blowing off your head."



Part I. Preparation Of Contact Explosives



Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable,

and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear

understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of

ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided.

Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following:



         1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at

            most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for

            bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with

            every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)



         2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale

            pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of

            water before weighing the next ingredient.



         3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the

            workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open

            containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage

            or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and

            replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.



         4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER

            TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding

            another ingredient.



         5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable

            structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should

            also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass

            also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an

            accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the

            top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some

            mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in

            a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform.

            In all cases, point the open end of the container away from

            yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any

            stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid

            sparks or static.



            Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on

            a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them

            across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.



         6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the

            material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the

            contents down.



         7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire

            hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be

            stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an

            accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,

            they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably

            locked away.



         8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly

            cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber

            or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture

            caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the

            friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any

            procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.



         9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES.

            Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure

            lenses and frames are not flammable.



        10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust

            form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there.

            They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.



        11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.



        12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.



        13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.



        14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.



        15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they

            produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot

            lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode

            dust floating in the air.



        16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.



        17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,

            hose, etc.)



        18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or

            put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle

            than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can.

            This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have

            been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again,

            please do not use metal in any circumstance.



        19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.

            Some information will be included in each file, but look for

            whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once

            thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.



        20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't

            forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.



        21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a

            half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload

            or reuse any dud.



        22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are

            doing and leave until it settles.



        23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.



        24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates,

            Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't

            drop them, or even handle them roughly.



These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one

example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the

good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got

out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the

green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man

got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor

we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these

chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable

of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take

this stuff lightly.





The contact explosives we will be describing use only a few chemicals. Some do

need extra caution to keep from causing trouble.



Iodine Crystals



Though most people don't realize it, Iodine is not a brown liquid, but a

steel-grey solid. The tincture of iodine you buy at the drugstore actually

contains just a tiny bit of iodine dissolved in a jarful of inexpensive

alcohol, and resold at a huge mark up. We'll be using iodine in the crystalline

form. On contact with your skin, it will produce a dark stain that won't wash

off with soap and water. We'll talk about removing these stains later. If it

gets hot, it vaporizes into a purple cloud, that smells like the chlorine in a

swimming pool. This cloud is dangerous to inhale, since it will condense in

your lungs, and is corrosive. Since we won't need to heat this stuff, it is not

a problem, but you should make sure that you don't let any iodine crystals

spill onto a hot surface. If you don't touch it and keep it away from your

face, you shouldn't have any troubles.



Ammonium Hydroxide



This is just good old household ammonia. Be sure to get the clear kind. The

sudsy stuff won't be too useful. It is made from ammonia gas dissolved in

water, and every time you open the bottle, it loses some of its strength, so be

sure to use fresh stuff. We need it to be as strong as possible. Some of the

formulas given here use lab grade concentrated ammonium hydroxide. It is much

stronger than the supermarket kind, and is very unkind to skin or especially

the eyes. It is a good idea to wear eye protection with even the supermarket

grade. Though we don't usually worry about this when using household ammonia

for cleaning, we usually dilute it for that. Here we'll be using it straight

out of the bottle, and it is much more corrosive in that form. Never use this

material if you don't have real good ventilation, as the ammonia vapors can be

overpowering.



Potassium Iodide



This is a reasonably safe chemical. You get Potassium ions in some of the fruit

you eat, and Iodide ions (usually as Sodium Iodide) are added to the table salt

you buy at the store. So, while you don't directly eat this chemical, you do

eat the components that make it up. Don't be scared of this stuff.





Sodium Thiosulfate



Otherwise known as photographic hypo. When dissolved in water, this will remove

the iodine stains left by touching iodine crystals, and exploding contact

explosive. Not particularly nasty stuff, but make sure to wash it off after

cleaning yourself with it.



                           General Information



This is a powerful and highly sensitive explosive. A dust sized particle will

make a sharp crack or popping sound. A piece the size of a pencil lead will

produce an explosion as loud as any of the largest firecrackers or cherry

bombs.  It cannot be exploded by any means when wet, and therefore can be

handled and applied with safety. When dry, it will explode with the touch of a

feather, or a breath of air.



The strength of the ammonia water you use will have a direct effect on the

strength of the final product. If you use supermarket ammonia, the explosive

will work, but not as spectacularly as if you use a 15% or higher (10 to 15

molar) solution. The stronger it is, the better. You'll also need filter paper,

and a funnel. A properly folded coffee filter will do nicely if you don't have

the filter paper. If you're not sure how to fold filter paper, check an

elementary chemistry textbook.



                          Methods of Preparation



1.) Granular Explosive. This is the easiest kind, and the only kind that will

work reasonably well with supermarket ammonia. Crush enough iodine crystals to

make a pile of powder equal to the volume of a pencil eraser. Do not grind into

a fine powder. Put about 4 ounces or 1/2 measuring cup of strong ammonia water

into a small container with the iodine, and seal it for about 5 to 10 minutes,

shaking frequently. While the mixture is reacting, get your filter paper ready.

While it is best to consult a book that shows how to do this, you take the

circle of filter paper, fold it in half, fold it again at right angles to the

first fold, and then open it to form a cone. Open or close it as needed to make

it conform to the angle of the funnel, and moisten it a little to make it stick

in place. Place the funnel over a container that will catch the waste liquid.

Let the mixture settle long enough for the sediment to settle, and pour off as

much of the clear liquid as possible before filtering the sediment. Pour the

remaining liquid and sediment into the filter. The sediment (and the filter

paper covered with it!!!) is your explosive. The small amount you have made

will go a lot farther than you realize. Particularly if you used good strong

ammonia. Place the explosive in an airtight leakproof pill bottle. As this

explosive is unstable by nature, fresh amounts give better results than stale

ones that have been sitting around for a day or so. Best results are obtained

with small fresh batches. But as you'll see, there are a few tricks you can do

with this material that do require it to sit for a day or more.



The explosive should be stored and applied while wet.



2.) Paint type explosive. This will use up a lot of iodine crystals. Make up a

strong tincture of iodine using about 4 ounces or 1/2 measuring cup of rubbing

alcohol, denatured alcohol, or wood alcohol.  Wood alcohol is preferable. Add

iodine crystals and shake thoroughly until no more will dissolve.  Pour the

liquid into a fruit jar. Add the ammonium hydroxide and stir the mixture until

the mixture is a chocolate brown and shows a little of the original color of

the iodine. The amount of ammonia necessary will depend on its strength. An

equal volume of ammonia is usually sufficient for a 15% or higher solution. The

solution should be filtered at once, and shouldn't ever wait more than 10 or 15

minutes, because it starts to dissolve again.



The explosive again should be stored and applied while wet. This material is

chemically the same as the granular explosive, but because it was precipitated

from a solution, it is much more finely divided, and the reaction happens

almost simultaneously, so you can get it out before it all vanishes back into

the solution.



3.) Paint type #2. Dissolve 1 gram of potassium iodide in about 90cc of

18%-22% ammonium hydroxide. Add 4 grams of pulverized iodine. A deep black

sediment should start forming. Let stand, and stir frequently for five minutes.

Then, filter as usual. While the potassium iodide is not an integral part of

the chemical reaction, the dissolved potassium iodide will allow the iodine

crystals in turn to dissolve, and its common ion effect will cause less iodine

crystals to be wasted. Since the iodine is by far the most expensive

ingredient, you'll save money in the long run by using it.



                       Care in Handling And Storage



Because this material is so unstable it deteriorates quickly. Don't make any

more than you need to use in the next 24 hours. If you can't use it all

immediately, the container you keep it in should be recapped tightly after use

and the mouth wiped clean. The explosive can cause dark stain damage to things

as rugs, clothing, chair seats, wallpaper, and light or clear plastics. A

strong solution of sodium thiosulfate is effective for removing stains from

hands and clothing before they set. Never leave the container of explosive in

direct sunlight for more than a few minutes, as it will weaken the strength. Do

NOT attempt to make a large explosion as it is dangerous and can cause

deafness.  All equipment used should be thoroughly washed and the used filter

paper flushed down the toilet. Under no circumstances attempt to handle the

dried material which is extremely explosive and hazardous. If you can avoid

storing the material in a container at all, there will be no chance that a

loose stopper will let the material dry out and become a potential bomb. Tiny

bits of this can be great fun, but it has to be handled with care.



                                 Application



Although largely a scientific curiosity, this explosive finds itself well

suited for practical jokes. It may easily be painted on the bottom side of

light switches, sprinkled on floors, painted in keyholes, pencil sharpeners,

doorknobs and in hundreds of other unsuspected places. It is also ideal for

catching locker thieves and desk prowlers. It will leave a dark stain on his

hands when it explodes, and only you will know how to remove it.



                              Reaction Equations



                                    Ammonium

          Ammonium      Ammonium    Nitrogen

Iodine   Hydroxide       Iodide    Tri Iodide  Water



3I     +   5NH OH   ---> 3NH I  +   NH NI    +  5H O

  2           4             4         3  3        2



The theoretical yield of explosive from pure iodine is 54.1% by weight. The

remainder of the iodine may be recovered for reuse from the ammonium iodide

waste product by evaporating the waste liquid and treating with chlorine if a

chemistry lab is available. The contact explosive is Ammonium Nitrogen

Tri-Iodide, which explodes into iodine, nitrogen, and ammonia.



 Ammonium

 Nitrigen

Tri-Iodide     Iodine  Nitrogen Ammonia



2NH NI    --->  3I   +    N    +  2NH

   3  3           2        2         3



                      Some Clever Uses For This Material



1.) Contact Explosive Torpedos. Get some gelatin capsules, the kind pills are

made of. Fill the small half with uncooked dry tapioca until it is half full.

Then place a wet blob of contact explosive about 4 times the size of a straight

pin head on top of it. Either the granular or paint type explosive will work.

The capsule is then filled the rest of the way up with tapioca until, when the

capsule is put together, the grains of tapioca are packed tightly, and none are

loose. If this is not done properly, the torpedos could go off prematurely, and

the joke would be on you. The torpedos are then moistened at the joints to seal

them and stored until the next day. They are not sensitive enough until the

next day and too sensitive the day after, so plan your activities accordingly.

These torpedos are the most fiendish devices made. You can lay one on top of a

door, where it will roll off when the door is opened, and it will explode on

contact with the floor. If you toss one some distance away it will appear as if

someone else was responsible for the explosion. These torpedos are ideal as

booby traps or for pulling practical jokes with. They may be carried in a small

box filled with cotton until needed. Just treat the box gently, and all will be

well.



2.Contact Explosive Booby Traps. Prepare a small amount of contact explosive.

Cut strips of newspaper 1 1/2 inches wide and 1 foot long. Cut a piece of

string 1 foot long. Put a small amount of wet contact explosive on the strip of

paper 1 inch from the end. Double the string. Now pull one end of the string

back until there is a double loop in the string about 1 inch long. Do not tie.

Lay this double loop across the wet contact explosive and tightly roll the

paper and glue the end. Put away for a few days until thoroughly dry. When dry,

pull the ends of the string and the booby trap will explode. The strings, when

pulled, rub against the dry contact explosive, and make it explode.





                           Getting The Materials



There are quite a few chemical supply houses that you can mail order the

materials you need. You'll have to sign a form stating that you're over 21 and

won't use the chemicals for the types of things we're learning here. Note that

the people who run these supply houses know what Iodine Crystals and Ammonium

Hydroxide can do when mixed together, and if you order both from the same

place, or in the same order, it may arouse some suspicion.



Check the classified ads in the back of magazines like Popular Science for the

current supply houses. Order as many catalogs as you can find. Not all sell

every chemical that you may want for this series. Also, you can break the

orders up so as not to look suspicious. Lastly, some houses are used to selling

to individuals, and will provide chemicals in 1 or 4 ounce lots, while others

prefer to sell to large institutions, and sell their wares in 1 or 5 pound

jugs. Split up your orders according to the quantities of each item you think

you will be needing. An ounce of Iodine Crystals will cost three or four

dollars an ounce, and an ounce bottle of iodine is pretty tiny, but it goes a

long way. If you had to buy that by the pound, you might just want to forget

the whole thing.





Part II. Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives





We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite

dangerous. Please read the following information carefully.





Sodium Azide - NaN

                  3

This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it

gently.



Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO )

                    3 2

This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will

absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints

and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in

your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless

with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one

afternoon.



Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO

                     4  3

Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large

quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this

material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it

decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use

it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off

with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here.



Potassium Nitrate - KNO

                       3

Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals.

It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is,

when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture

burn.



Potassium   Potassium

 Nitrate     Nitrite   Oxygen



 2KNO   --->  2KNO    +  O

     3            2       2







Potassium Chlorate - KClO

                         3

A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only

yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic

mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn

more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be

useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like.

Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium

Chlorate is also poisonous.



Potassium     Potassium

 Chlorate      Chloride   Oxygen



  2KClO   --->   2KCl   +   3O

       3                      2





Aluminum Dust



Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a

solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can

seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any

clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an

open flame.



Zinc Dust



Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still

worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled.



Lampblack



This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other

manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures

than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they

stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you

should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using

this.



Sulfur



A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy

this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these

will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself.



Potassium Permanganate



An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here.

Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less

effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just

the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine.

If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up

with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be

thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!!



Gum Arabic



A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful

for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass.



Sodium Peroxide



A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it

touch your skin.



Glycerine



A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get

burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff.



Iodine Crystals



Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses

poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches

and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and

notice the odor, you should leave the area.







                                Touch Paper



This is an easily made material that acts like a slow burning fuse and is

ideal for testing small amounts of a pyrotechnic mixture. It is made by

soaking a piece of absorbent paper, like a paper towel, in a saturated

solution of Potassium Nitrate. (A saturated solution means that you have

dissolved as much of the chemical in water as is possible.) Hang the paper up

to dry, and be sure to wipe up any drips. When dry it is ready. Cut off a

small strip and light the edge to see how different it acts from ordinary

paper. This will ignite all but the most stubborn mixtures, and will ignite

gunpowder, which will in turn ignite most anything else.



Don't dip the towel in the Potassium Nitrate solution a second time to try to

make it "stronger". This will actually make it less effective. Some of the

fancier paper towels don't work too well for this. Best results are obtained

from the cheap folded paper towels found in public restrooms everywhere.





                           Self Igniting Mixtures



Pulverize 1 gram of Potassium Permanganate crystals and place them on an

asbestos board or in an earthenware vessel. Let 2-3 drops of glycerine fall

onto the Potassium Permanganate. The mixture will eventually sizzle and then

flare. Potassium Permanganate is the oxidizing agent. The glycerine is

oxidized so quickly that heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated.

Consequently, the glycerine is ignited. Because this mixture takes so long to

catch on fire, it is sometimes useful when a time delay is needed to set off

some other mixture. If you lose patience with this test, DO NOT THROW THE

MIXTURE AWAY IN A WASTEBASKET!!! Either bury it or flush it down a toilet. I

know of at least one house fire that was started because this was not done.

Given time, this stuff WILL start to burn.



This demonstration produces a very nice effect, but sends out a lot of

poisonous fumes, so do it outside. Make a mound of equal volumes of iodine

crystals and aluminum dust. Make a small indentation at the top of the mound

and add a drop or two of water and move away. It will hiss and burst into

flame, generating thick purple smoke. The fumes are Iodine vapor which is

very caustic, so make sure you are upwind of the fire. Since this is set off

by moisture, you should not store the mixed material. Mix it immediately

before you plan to use it.



Shred a small piece of newspaper and place on it a small amount of sodium

peroxide. Add two drops of hot water. The paper will be ignited. CAUTION: Keep

Sodium Peroxide from moisture and out of contact with organic materials (your

skin, for example.)



Ammonium Nitrate, 5 grams, 1 gram of Ammonium Chloride. Grind these

SEPARATELY, and add 1/4 gram of zinc dust. Form a cone and add 2-4 drops of

water. A bright blue flame with large volumes of smoke forms. Depending on the

quality of your zinc dust, you may need to increase the quantity of zinc.

Since this is ignited by moisture, you should not attempt to store this

mixture.





                           Percussion Explosives



This section will not only introduce a couple of mixtures with interesting

possibilities, but it will also demonstrate how sensitive mixtures containing

Potassium Chlorate can be. Keep in mind that Chlorate mixtures can be a LOT

more sensitive than the ones shown here.





Mix 1 part by weight of Sulfur, and 3 parts Potassium Chlorate. Each should be

ground separately in a mortar. They should be mixed lightly without any

pressure on a sheet of paper. A small amount of this mixture (less than one

gram!!) placed on a hard surface and struck with a hammer will explode with a

loud report.



Mix the following parts by weight, the same way as above,



                Potassium Chlorate 6

                Lampblack          4

                Sulfur             1



Both of these mixtures are flammable. Mix small quantities only.







                             Lead Azide  Pb(N )

                                             3 2



Unlike many explosives that must be enclosed in a casing to explode, and

others that require a detonator to set them off, Lead Azide will explode in

open air, either due to heat or percussion. Mixed with gum arabic glue, tiny

dots of it are placed under match heads to make trick exploding matches. The

same mixture coated onto 1/2 " wood splinters are used to "load" cigars. In

larger amounts, it is used as a detonator. A moderately light tap will set it

off, making it much more sensitive than the percussion explosives already

mentioned. It is very easy to make.



Take about 1.3 grams of sodium azide and dissolve it in water. It's best not

to use any more water than necessary. In a separate container, dissolve about

3.3 grams of Lead Nitrate, again only using as much water as needed to get it

to dissolve. When the two clear liquids are mixed, a white precipitate of Lead

Azide will settle out of the mixture. Add the Lead Nitrate solution, while

stirring, until no more Lead  Azide precipitates out. You may not need to use

it all. Note that the above weights are given only for your convenience if you

have the necessary scales, and give the approximate proportions needed. You

need only continue to mix the solutions until no more precipitate forms.



The precipitate is filtered out and rinsed several times with distilled water.

It is a good idea to store this in its wet form, as it is less sensitive this

way. It's best not to store it if possible, but if you do, you should keep it

in a flexible plastic container that wont produce sharp fragments in case of

an explosion. (NO MORE THAN A GRAM AT A TIME !!!!) Also, make sure that the

mouth of the container is wiped CLEAN before putting the lid on. Just the

shock of removing the lid is enough to set off the dry powder if it is wedged

between the container and the stopper. Don't forget that after you've removed

the precipitate from the filter paper, there will still be enough left to make

the filter paper explosive.



Lead Azide is very powerful as well as very sensitive. Never make more than a

couple of grams at one time.



            Reaction Equations



Lead        Sodium        Lead     Sodium

Nitrate      Azide       Azide    Nitrate



Pb(NO )   +  2NaN   ---> Pb(N )  + 2NaNO

     3 2         3           3 2        3



Don't try to salvage the Sodium Nitrate that's left over (dissolved in the

water). Sodium nitrate is cheap, not really useful for good pyrotechnics, and

this batch will be contaminated with poisonous lead. It's worthless stuff.

Dump it out.



To demonstrate the power of a little bit of Lead Azide, cut out a piece of

touch paper in the following shape







-----------------------------

!                            !

!                            !

!                             ---------------

!                                            !

!                             ---------------

!                            !

!                            !

-----------------------------



Where the size of the wide rectangle is no more than one inch x 1/2 inch, and

the length of the little fuse is at least 3/4 inch. Apply a thin layer of wet

Lead Azide to the large rectangle with a paint brush and let it dry

thoroughly. When done, set this tester out in the open, light the fuse at the

very tip and step back. If done properly, the tiny bit of white powder will

produce a fairly loud explosion.





                          A Lead Azide Booby Trap



Get some string that's heavy enough so that it won't break when jerked hard. A

couple of feet is enough to test this out. You may want to use a longer piece

depending on what you plan to do with this. Fold a small "Z" shape in the

center of the string, as shown in figure 1. The middle section of the "Z"

should be about one inch long.





-------------------------------------.

                             .

                   .

           .

       --------------------------------------------------



                  Figure 1. Fold string into a small Z



Next, twist the Z portion together as tightly as you can. Don't worry if it

unwinds a bit when you let go, but it should still stay twisted closely

together. If it doesn't, you will need a different kind of string. Figure 2

tries to show what this will look like.





-------------//////////////////-----------------



                  Figure 2. Twist the Z portion tightly



Next, apply some wet Lead Azide to the twisted portion with a paint brush. The

Lead Azide should have a bit of Gum Arabic in it to make it sticky. Cut

out a piece of paper, two inches by 6 inches long, wrap it around the twisted

portion, and glue the end on so that it stays put. You should now have a two

inch narrow paper tube with a string sticking out each end, as shown in figure

3.



          -------------------------

          !                       !

----------!                       !-------------------

          !                       !

          -------------------------



                  Figure 3. The completed Booby Trap



You should now set the booby trap aside for at least two weeks so that the

Lead Azide inside can dry completely. Don't try to speed up the process by

heating it. When the two ends of the string are jerked hard, the friction in

the wound up string will set off the Lead Azide. The booby trap can be

attatched to doors, strung out as tripwires, or set up in any other situation

that will cause a quick pull on the strings. Be careful not to use too much

Lead Azide. A little will go a long way. Before trying this on an unsuspecting

soul, make a test booby trap as explained here, tie one end to a long rope,

and set it off from a distance.



The paper wound around the booby trap serves two purposes. It keeps the Lead

Azide from flaking off, and it pads the stuff so it will be less likely to get

set off accidentally. A good vigorous swat will still set it off though, so

store these separately and keep them padded well.





                          Getting The Chemicals



As always, be sure to use your brains when ordering chemicals from a lab

supply house. Those people KNOW what Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate make when

mixed together. They also know that someone who orders a bunch of chlorates,

nitrates, metal dusts, sulfur, and the like, probably has mischeif in mind,

and they keep records. So break your orders up, order from different supply

houses, get some friends to order some of the materials, and try to order the

things long before you plan do do anything with them. It's a pain, and the

multiple orders cost a lot in extra shipping charges, but that's what it costs

to cover your tracks. DO it!





Part III. Stars, Flares, and Color Mixtures





We will be using the following materials this time. Get familiar with them.

Some can be highly dangerous.





Aluminum Dust (and powder)   Al



An element used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can be purchased as

a fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical to superpure (99.9%)

can be used. It is dangerous to inhale the dust. The dust is also flammable, by

itself. In coarser forms, like powder, it is less dangerous.



Antimony Sulfide Sb S

                   2 3

Also known as "Black" Antimony Sulfide. (There is also a "Red" form, which is

useless to us.) This is used to sharpen the report of firecrackers, salutes,

etc, or to add color to a fire. The technical, black, powder is suitable. Avoid

contact with the skin. Dermatitis or worse will be the result.



Barium Chlorate   Ba(ClO ) * H O

                        3 2   2

Available as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts. It is

used both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is as powerful as Potassium

Chlorate and should be handled with the same care. Melting point is 414

degrees.



Barium Nitrate  Ba(NO )

                     3 2

Poisonous. Used as an oxidizer and colorizer. The uses and precautions are the

same as with a mixture containing Potassium Nitrate.



Charcoal  C



A form of the element carbon. Used in fireworks and explosives as a reducing

agent. It can be purchased as a dust on up to a coarse powder. Use dust form,

unless otherwise specified. The softwood variety is best, and it should be

black, not brown.



Copper Acetoarsenite   (CuO) As O Cu(C H O )

                            3  2 3    2 3 2 2

The popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also called King's Green or

Vienna Green. It has been used as an insecticide, and is available as a

technical grade, poisonous, emerald green powder. It is used in fireworks to

add color. Careful with this stuff. It contains arsenic.



Copper Chloride   CuCl

                      2

A color imparter. As with all copper salts, this is poisonous.



Copper Sulfate   CuSO *5H O

                     4   2

Known as Blue Vitriol, this poisonous compound is available as blue crystals or

blue powder. Can be purchased in some drugstores and some agricultural supply

stores. Used as a colorizer.



Dextrine

This can be purchased as a white or yellow powder. It is a good cheap glue for

binding cases and stars in fireworks.



Lampblack   C



This is another form of the element carbon. It is a very finely powdered black

dust (soot, actually) resulting from the burning of crude oils. It is used for

special effects in fireworks.



Lead Chloride  PbCl

                   3

Available as a white, crystalline, poisonous powder, which melts at 501

degrees. As with all lead salts, it is not only poisonous, but the poison

accumulates in the body, so a lot of small, otherwise harmless doses can be as

bad as one large dose.



Mercurous Chloride  HgCl



Also known as calomel or Mercury Monochloride. This powder will brighten an

otherwise dull colored mixture. Sometimes it is replaced by Hexachlorobenzene

for the same purpose. This is non poisonous ONLY if it is 100% pure. Never

confuse this chemical with Mercuric Chloride, which is poisonous in any purity.



Potassium Chlorate  KClO

                        3

This, perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before it was

known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened the door to

what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that is used as an

oxidizer. Never ram or strike a mixture containing Potassium Chlorate. Do not

store mixtures containing this chemical for any length of time, as they may

explode spontaneously.



Potassium Dichromate   K Cr O

                        2  2 7

Also known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in fireworks

and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous.



Potassium Nitrate   KNO

                       3

Commonly called Saltpeter. This chemical is an oxidizer which decomposes at 400

degrees. It is well known as a component of gunpowder and is also used in other

firework pieces. Available as a white powder.



Potassium Perchlorate   KClO

                            4

Much more stable than its chlorate brother, this chemical is a white or

slightly pink powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to make

the mixture safer. It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to make up for

this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also poisonous.



Red Gum



Rosin similar to shellac and can often replace it in many fireworks formulas.

Red Gum is obtained from barks of trees.



Shellac Powder



An organic rosin made from the secretions of insects which live in India. The

exact effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other gums. The

common mixture of shellac and alcohol sold in hardware stores should be

avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in color.



Sodium Oxalate  Na C O

                  2 2 4

Used in making yellow fires. Available as a fine dust, which you should avoid

breathing.



Strontium Carbonate   SrCO

                          3

Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for adding a

red color to fires. It comes as a white powder, in a pure, technical, or

natural state.



Strontium Nitrate   Sr(NO )

                         3 2

By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and fires.

Available in the technical grade as a white powder. It does double duty as an

oxidizer, but has a disadvantage in that it will absorb some water from the

air.



Strontium Sulfate   SrSO

                        4

Since this chemical does not absorb water as readily as the nitrate, it is

often used when the powder is to be stored. In its natural state it is known as

Celestine, which is comparable to the technical grade used in fireworks.



Sulfur   S



A yellow element that acts as a reducing agent. It burns at 250 degrees, giving

off choking fumes. Purchase the yellow, finely powdered form only. Other forms

are useless without a lot of extra and otherwise unnecessary effort to powder

it.



Zinc Dust   Zn



Of all the forms of zinc available, only the dust form is in any way suitable.

As a dust, it has the fineness of flour. Should be either of the technical or

high purity grade. Avoid breathing the dust, which can cause lung damage. Used

in certain star mixtures, and with sulfur, as a rocket fuel.







                         The Chemistry of Pyrotechnics



Most pyrotechnic mixtures follow a very simple set of chemical rules. We'll go

over those now. Most mixtures contain an oxidizing agent, which usually

produces oxygen used to burn the mixture, and a reducing agent, which burns to

produce hot gasses. In addition, there can be coloring agents to impart a color

to the fire, binders, which hold the mixture in a solid lump, and regulators

that speed up or slow down the speed at which the mixture burns. These are not

all the possibilities, but they cover most all cases.



Oxidizing agents, such as nitrates, chlorates, and perchlorates provide the

oxygen. They usually consist of a metal ion and the actual oxidizing radical.

For example, Potassium Nitrate contains a metal ion (Potassium) and the

oxidizing radical (the Nitrate). Instead of potassium, we could instead

substitute other metals, like sodium, barium, or strontium, and the chemical

would still supply oxygen to the burning mixture. But some are less desirable.

Sodium Nitrate, for example, will absorb moisture out of the air, and this will

make it harder to control the speed at which the mixture will burn.



In the following examples, we'll use the letter "X" to show the presence of a

generic metal ion.



Note that Nitrates are stingy with the oxygen that they give up. They only give

one third of what they have.



    Some        Some

   Nitrate     Nitrite  Oxygen



     2XNO  ---> 2XN0    +  O

         3          2       2



Chlorates are very generous, on the other hand. They give up all the oxygen

they have. Furthermore, they give it up more easily. It takes less heat, or

less shock to get that oxygen loose. Mixtures using chlorates burn more

spectacularly, because a smaller volume of the mix needs to be wasted on the

oxidizer, and the ease with which the oxygen is supplied makes it burn faster.

But the mixture is also MUCH more sensitive to shock.



     Some           Some

   Chlorate       Chloride     Oxygen



     2XClO   --->   2XCl     +   3O

          3                        2



Perchlorates round out our usual set of oxidizing tools. Perchlorates contain

even more oxygen than Chlorates, and also give it all up. However, they are not

as sensitive as the Chlorates, so they make mixtures that are "safer". That is,

they're less likely to explode if you drop or strike them.



     Some          Some

  Perchlorate    Chloride     Oxygen



     XClO   --->   XCl     +    2O

         4                        2





Reducing agents, like sulfur and charcoal (carbon) simply burn the oxygen to

produce sulfur dioxide and carbon dioxide. It's usually best to include a

mixture of the two in a pyrotechnic mixture, as they burn at different speeds

and temperatures, and the proper combination will help control the speed of

combustion. Also, when extra fast burning speed is needed, like in rockets and

firecrackers, metal powder is often added. The finer the powder, the faster the

burning rate. The proportions change the speed, as well. Magnesium powder or

dust is often used for speed. Aluminum dust works, but not as well. Zinc dust

is used in some cases. Powdered metal, (not dust) particularly aluminum or

iron, are often used to produce a mixtire that shoots out sparks as it burns.

In rare cases, it is desirable to slow down the burning speed. In this case,

corn meal is often used. It burns, so acts as a reducing agent, but it doesn't

burn very well.





Coloring agents are very interesting. It's long been known that various metals

produce different colored flames when burned in a fire. The reasons are buried

in the realm of quantum physics, but the results are what matters, and we can

present them here. Note that if we use an oxidizing agent that contains a

colorizing metal, it can do a double job. It can produce oxygen and color.



Barium     -Barium salts give a pleasant green color. Barium Nitrate is most

            often used.

Strontium  -Strontium salts give a strong red color. Strontium Nitrate is a

            very convenient material for red.

Sodium     -Sodium salts give an intense yellow color. So intense in fact that

            any sodium compounds in a mixture will usually wash out other

            colorizers. As has been said, Sodium Nitrate absorbs moisture from

            the air, and so is not really suitable to impart color. Instead,

            Sodium Oxalate is usually used. This does not absorb lots of water,

            but has the disadvantage of being very poisonous.

Copper     -Copper salts are used to give a blue color. Blue is the most

            difficult color to produce, and it's usually not too spectacular.

            Usually Copper Acetoarsenite (Paris Green) is used. This compound

            contains arsenic, and is very poisonous. Since it still doesn't

            produce a very memorable blue, it's often used with mercurous

            chloride, which enhances the color, but is also poisonous, and

            expensive, to boot.

Potassium  -Potassium salts will give a delicate purple color, if they'e very

            pure. The cheaper lab grades of potassium nitrate often contain

            traces of sodium, which completely obscure the purple color. In

            order to get the purple coloring, very pure grades must be used,

            and you must be very careful to mix it in very clean vessels, and

            scoop it from the supply jar with a very clean scoop. The color is

            certainly worth the effort, if you can get it.





Some mixtures that burn in colors also contain binders, that hold the mixture

together in a solid lump. These lumps are usually referred to as stars. The

balls fired from a roman candle or the colorful showers sprayed from aerial

bombs are examples of stars. Depending on the mixture, the binder is either a

starch called dextrine or finely powdered orange shellac. A shellac-like

material called red gum is also used on occasion. In some mixtures, the shellac

powder also helps produce a nice color. Shellac mixtures are moistened with

alcohol to get them to stick together. Dextrine mixtures are moistened with

water.



If the colored mixture is to be used as a flare, it's just packed into a thin

paper tube. If it's to be fired from a roman candle, it's usually extruded from

a heavy tube by pushing it out with a dowel, and the pieces are cut off as the

proper length pops out. Stars fired from an aerial bomb are usually made by

rolling the moist mixture flat, and cutting it with a knife into small cubes.

Stars that are extruded are often called "pumped stars" those that are rolled

out are "cut stars".



The following are formulas for mixtures that burn with various colors. Parts

are by weight.



Red



Potassium Chlorate    9

Sulfur                2

Lampblack             1

Strontium Nitrate     9

bind with shellac

dissolved in alcohol





Blue



Potassium Chlorate    9         This one is inferior

Copper Acetoarsenite  2         Potassium Chlorate    12

Mercurous Chloride    1         Copper Sulfate        6

Sulfur                2         Lead Chloride         1

bind with dextrine              Sulfur                4

in water                        bind with dextrin in water





Green



Barium Chlorate       8         Barium Nitrate        3

Lampblack             1         Potassium Chlorate    4

Shellac Powder        1         Shellac Powder        1

bind with alcohol               Dextrine              1/4

                                Bind with alcohol



Yellow



Potassium Chlorate    8         Potassium Chlorate    8

Sodium Oxalate        3         Sodium Oxalate        4

Lampblack             2         Shellac Powder        2

Bind with shellac in            Dextrine              1

alcohol or dextrine             Bind with alcohol

in water





White



Potassium Nitrate     6

Sulfur                1

Antimony Sulfide      2

bind with dextrine in

water





Orange



Strontium Nitrate     36

Sodium Oxalate        8

Potassium Chlorate    5

Shellac Powder        5

Sulfur                3

Bind with alcohol





Purple (ingredients must be very pure)



Potassium Chlorate    36        This one has more of a lilac color

Strontium Sulfate     10        Potassium Chlorate    38

Copper Sulfate        5         Strontium Carbonate   18

Lead Chloride         2         Copper Chloride       4

Charcoal              2         Lead Chloride         2

Sulfur                12        Sulfur                14

bind with dextrine in           bind with dextrine in water

water





Brilliant White



Potassium Perchlorate 12

Aluminum Dust         4

Dextrine              1

Bind with water





Golden Twinkler Stars - Falls through the air and burns in an on and off

  manner. The effect is spectacular. A pumped or cut star.



Potassium Nitrate     18

Sulfur                3

Lampblack             3

Aluminum Powder       3

Antimony Sulfide      3

Sodium Oxalate        4

Dextrine              2

Bind with water



Zinc Spreader Stars - Shoot out pieces of burning zinc and charcoal. These

  stars are much heavier than usual, and require larger charges if they're to

  be fired from a tube.



Zinc Dust             72

Potassium Chlorate    15

Potassium Dichromate  12

Granular Charcoal     12

Dextrine               2

bind with water



Electric Stars - Stars that contain aluminum powder



Potassium Nitrate     15        Potassium Chlorate    60

Aluminum, fine        2         Barium Nitrate        5

Aluminum, medium      1         Aluminum, fine        9

Black Powder          2         Aluminum, medium      4

Antimony Sulfide      3         Aluminum, coarse      3

Sulfur                4         Charcoal              2

bind with dextrine in           Dextrin               5

water                           bind with red gum in

                                water

Potassium Perchlorate 6

Barium Nitrate        1         Potassium Perchlorate 4

Aluminum              20        Aluminum, medium      2

Dextrin               1         Dextrin               1

bind with shellac in            bind with shellac in alcohol

alcohol





Simpler Zinc Spreaders



Potassium Nitrate     14        Potassium Chlorate    5

Zinc Dust             40        Potassium Dichromate  4

Charcoal              7         Charcoal, medium      4

Sulfur                4         Zinc Dust             24

bind with dextrine in           bind with dextrine in water

water





Willow Tree Stars - Use large amounts of lampblack -- too much to burn fully.

  Gives a willow tree effect.



Potassium Chlorate    10

Potassium Nitrate     5

Sulfur                1

Lampblack             18

bind with dextrine in water



In future files, we'll look at using these mixtures to produce roman candles,

aerial bombs, and other effects. As always, don't forget that it's just plain

stupid to go buying all these materials from one chemical supply house. When

you buy it all as a group, they know what you plan to do with it, and they keep

records. If anyone goes investigating the source of homemade fireworks and

checks with your supplier, there will be a lead straight to you. Be sure to

cover your tracks.





Part IV. Casings and General Construction





One of the biggest complaints I hear about firework formulas goes something

like, "This $@#!!* thing doesn't work! I wish someone would actually try the

things out before they upload them and waste my time!" Sometimes, I agree.

There are formulas for fireworks and explosives that have no chance of working,

and others that are downright dangerous. Many were obviously thrown together by

kids who never really tried them out, but thought they would look "big" in the

eyes of their friends if they wrote some "anarchy" files. Others copy formulas

from old manuals on pyrotechnics or explosives, or even old encyclopedias.

These will often work, but many were written before anyone thought about

safety, and were abandoned after enough people got blown away. Modern

literature on pyrotechnics often warn against some of these old formulations,

but they get copied anyway by people who either don't know or don't care that

they're dangerous. These files can then get passed around the country by others

who don't know of the danger.



Let me make my feelings clear. People who write such trash are dangerous and

should be treated the same as anyone who tried to slip you a computer virus or

trojan horse. At least a trojan will just screw up your hard drive. That can be

repaired, but you can't go buy a new set of eyes or fingers! If you don't

thoroughly understand what you're doing, go learn some more, first. There are

enough bad text files out there that taking the time to learn about dangerous

materials and mixtures will be your only defense against getting seriously

hurt.



But a formula may be completely correct and as safe as a pyrotechnic mixture is

expected to be, and you still may have trouble making it work. Often the reason

is that the kids who wrote the text files don't know how to package the

materials to get the proper results. Or they didn't know that it takes more

than just mixing chemicals to make some of the compositions work. If you've

ever mixed together the ingredients for gunpowder and watched its feeble

fizzling compared that to the hard flash of commercial gunpowder, you've seen

how important the proper processing can be. Sure, the first time you mixed a

few chemicals together it was a real kick just to set fire to a small pile of

it and watch it burn. But to make any kind of decent firework requires that a

properly designed casing be used to hold your magic powders, and then those

powders have to be made properly. A poorly designed casing or improperly

processed composition will louse things up as much as any lousy formula.



There don't seem to be any text files out there that discuss casings or

processing, though I've personally downloaded hundreds that contain formulas

for pyrotechnic mixtures. Now we can change all that.



So what's the big deal about casings? Just a paper tube, right? No, not

quite. A roman candle casing has to be able to handle repeated bursts so as

to fire its stars like a rifle does bullets. But if all the burning materials

inside change the inside diameter of the casing by too much, then the puffs

of gas that fire the stars into the air will escape around them and not push

them very high. Some of my early attempts didn't fire the stars out at all. A

skyrocket casing has to be light, strong enough not to burst even though the

pressures inside can be tremendous, and if it has a nozzle it has to grip it

tightly enough that it doesn't get blown out of the casing. A firecracker on

the other hand, has to be flimsy enough to burst yet strong enough to grip

its end plugs rather than let them rip loose and fire off of the end of the

casing. There are dozens of other examples, and if the casings aren't built

right then you've just built a dud.



So, learning all about various papers and glues isn't nearly as sexy as

playing with chemicals, but until you do you may as well just go lighting up

little piles of powder. You'll save a lot of money, and the results will be no

less spectacular. But there's a lot more to this than we can cover in the size

text file that's been typical of this series. We'll break this topic up into a

group of files that are a bit larger than usual. This will just be part 1 of

the discussion on casings and construction.



So, now that I've shamed you into wanting to learn about paper and glue,

let's get down to business. There are two kinds of paper tubes available.

These are called spiral wound and parallel wound. If you've ever tried to

wrap a sheet of paper around a dowel, pencil, or broomstick handle, you

produced a crude parallel wound casing. We'll be sharpening our skills in

this area. Spiral wound casings are made by wrapping thin strips around a

round dowel form in a spiral pattern. Tubes used to hold wrapping paper,

paper towels and toilet paper are made using this method, so check one of

these if you have trouble picturing the method. Spiral wound casings are

almost useless in fireworks as they have much less strength. Only

firecrackers like M-80s use spiral wound casings, and that's because they're

not supposed to be strong. So if you happen to come across some spiral wound

tubes that are the right size to cut up for M-80s, you may be able to use

them. Otherwise, they're probably not all that useful, even if they seem

thick enough.



Just so as not to worry anybody, you don't NEED a spiral wound tube for

M-80s. A suitably thin parallel wound tube will do the job just fine. Spiral

wound tubes are frequently used wherever possible because they're cheaper to

make. Machines that handle thin strips of paper don't make as many wrinkled

tubes as machines that have to handle wide sheets. Since we'll be doing our

work by hand, this need not bother us.



                                  Glues



The good news here is that the materials won't be nearly as hard to come by

as some of the pyrotechnic mixtures mentioned in earlier installments. There

are different types of glue formulas, most being variations of flour paste,

which you can select, depending on what's convenient to you. If you don't

feel like doing the slimy work needed to make this muck, I'll mention that

I've had some success with commercial white glues, like Elmer's Glue All,

though this tends to make a casing that doesn't accept certain types of end

plugs very tightly. I wouldn't use it for rocket casings, and firecrackers have

to be specially constructed. It's also going to cost a lot more than flour

paste. You can experiment with it for small batches, if you like. It's also

possible to get passable results with batches of white school paste, thinned

down with enough water to make it flow. But if you're going to make a

reasonable number of casings, you'll need larger batches of glue, and you can

make it fairly cheaply and simply.



A good, homemade glue that will make strong casings is made by adding 4 1/2

cups of flour to 3 cups of boiling water and then adding 1/8 ounce of alum

(aluminum potassium sulfate). Stir this combination until it is consistent in

blend. When it's cooled, it's ready to use. The flour is the actual glue. The

alum helps fireproof the mess and helps act as a preservative. This is

important, as wet flour will eventually spoil, and so this mess has to be

used up fairly quickly. Don't count on saving it for more than a couple of

days and especially don't try storing it in a jar or other closed space. The

flour will spoil by fermenting, producing lots of gas, bursting your jar.



But if spoilage is a real problem, can we let the flour spoil BEFORE we make

the glue? This is not as silly a question as it sounds. By doing this, we

make a slop that can be kept a month or so, if it's also kept in a reasonably

cool, dark place. Just don't make it on a full stomach.



Pour anywhere from a few cups to a few bucketfulls of flour into a container

large enough to cover it with a good layer of water but still be only a third

full. How much water you use doesn't matter too much right now, as most of it

will be poured out later. Just make sure that you're making a batter, instead

of a dough. Stir it up good, but don't worry too much about little lumps.

That will be corrected later.



Now for the revolting part. Let the stuff sit for 2-3 days in a warm (90

degrees F) place and check it after then. If it hasn't begun fermenting by

then, drop in a few pinches of instant yeast. When the fermentation is finished

and there are no more bubbles forming, the flour will have settled as a gooey

layer at the bottom of a pool of revolting brownish liquid. Get rid of the

brown slop and note how much batter is resting in the bottom of the container.

Boil enough water so as to have a volume that's twice the size of the batter,

and pour it in slowly, stirring the flour briskly. It'll start out being easy

to stir, but will get thick in a hurry. If you're only making a few cups at a

time, it won't be heavy enough to hold still while you're trying to stir it, so

you might want to have the container clamped down solid.



If you did it all right, you should have a batch of clear, smooth paste that's

plenty sticky and fine for sticking your casings together. Since it's already a

spoiled batch of flour, it can't go bad a second time and needs no

preservatives.



If you plan to use any Chlorates in your fireworks you should also add some

potassium carbonate dissolved in water to your glue before using it to make any

casings. I always put it in, no matter what I plan to do. The reason for this

is that glue tends to deteriorate slightly, producing a slightly acidic

material. Old paper used in the casings can also become acidic. Any Chlorate

that comes in contact with an acid will produce tiny amounts of Chloric Acid,

which can ignite if you do anything more vigorous than just thinking about it.

Potassium Carbonate will counteract the effect of any acids, making your final

masterpiece much safer than it would be otherwise. After that, it's still

common practice to design fireworks so that no Chlorate bearing portions

actually touch any glue.



A super hard pyrotechnic cement can be made by mixing finely powdered Calcium

Carbonate (powdered chalk) with Sodium Silicate solution. The proportions will

vary depending on the amount of water in the Sodium Silicate, but you can make

a few small test batches to check what works best for your materials. The

Sodium Silicate should be thick enough to remind you of maple syrup, and can

either be thinned with distilled water or allowed to thicken by evaporation, as

needed. Stir in the Calcium Carbonate until you've got a thick, sticky mess.

When this stuff hardens, you won't be able to clean it off of your utensils, so

use items that you won't mind throwing away.



This material makes nice end plugs in large firecrackers, and can be mixed with

sawdust and a bit of red powdered tempra paint to make that nice, solid shell

that coats cherry bombs. But this stuff is rock hard and turns into a shower of

skin and eye piercing shrapnel once it bursts. Keep this in mind as you design

your little gems.



                      What Was That About Chlorates?



Materials like Potassium Chlorate and Barium Chlorate are among those that you

love and fear to use. Unlike the Perchlorates, which are much safer, Chlorates

form Chloric Acid in the presence of moisture (like humidity) and any kind of

acid material, and this can cause your mixtures to ignite on their own. If that

igniting mixture is inside a salute that's piled in a box with other salutes,

you can expect the whole thing to go up at once. Impressive to watch from a

distance, but if it was in the trunk of your car, you should expect to have to

answer a lot of questions to the authorities. And pay higher insurance. Yes,

there's nothing like Chlorates to make fireworks so thoroughly spectacular.



What to do? I normally avoid them, but have no problem with passing on formulas

that use them, as long as you realize what you're getting into. While there are

some places they should never be used, Chlorates are sometimes used in stars

that get fired from a roman candle or aerial bomb, because the speed with which

they get ejected can actually blow them out. Chlorate based mixtures just don't

blow out. If you want to use them, use small amounts and don't try to store

your creations over long periods of time. Keep them away from other fireworks.



We can neutralize an acid by adding a base (a Hydroxide) but bases tend to

absorb atmospheric moisture and screw up the burning of your mixture. A group

of compounds that act much like bases (Carbonates) also can counteract small

traces of acids. Make sure that your glue contains carbonates to counteract the

effect of any acids that may form. If you want your eyes and fingers to last a

lifetime, it's also a good idea to add some sort of Carbonate to the firework

mixture. This will counteract any acid, but adds nothing at all to the

performance of the powder. Furthermore, they can change the color that the

powder burns. We've covered the elements that add color in an earlier file, and

know, for example that Strontium salts give a red color. So adding Strontium

Carbonate to the mixture can at least give us some coloring. Barium Carbonate

can give a green color. While Sodium Carbonate might give us a yellow though,

it also absorbs atmospheric moisture and will keep your mixture from burning

properly.



The use of carbonates is particularly important if your mixture contains both a

Chlorate and Sulfur. Sulfur can form both traces of Sulfur Dioxide and Hydrogen

Sulfide, and BOTH of these become acidic in water. One of the earlier files in

this series showed how a mixture of just Potassium Chlorate and Sulfur will

explode when you strike them. The trace amounts of acid that are always present

in sulfur in the air can form enough Chloric Acid to explode when hit. Now, if

you let it sit by itself for a long time, it may decide to ignite by itself.

Then again, it may not. A potassium Chlorate-Sulfur bearing pyrotechnic mixture

may behave properly the first 99 times you try it, and then bite you on the

hundredth. If you want to experiment with Chlorate-Sulfur formulas, use small

amounts only, add a carbonate before using them in any real fireworks, and

absolutely avoid any of the ancient formulas that use Chlorates and Sulfur in

firecrackers. For that matter, Chlorates mixed with anything in a firecracker

are a bad idea.



                          Commercial Safety Fuse



This handy item consists of a string coated with gunpowder, which is in turn

gwrapped with light twine, and finally coated with a red or green varnish. The

varnish is apparently applied without a great deal of thinner in it, because it

covers the twine layer without actually soaking into it. This waterproofs the

fuse, and it can get quite moist for a long time and still work, provided that

you don't crack the varnish layer by bending it too severely. If you do, the

fuse will still work fine as long as it stays dry. This type of construction is

built around its being made by machine. You wouldn't want to make it this way

by hand, though we'll talk in a minute about a way to make a somewhat inferior

waterproof fuse.



The red and green varnishes are more than just decorative. They tell you

something about how the fuse works. All fuses will spit a stream of burning

crud from their ends as they burn. Sometimes people who are the first to

describe things have no imagination, and it must have been the case here,

because this property is known as end spit. Some fuses also spit sparks to the

side, and not surprisingly, this is called side spit. Consider that a fuse that

has little side spit may not light some of the more difficult to ignite

mixtures until it burns to the very end of the fuse and fires its last spit out

of the far end. Some of the very difficult to ignite mixtures may not ignite at

all. Fuse with side spit will be blasting away at the mixture its inserted into

through the entire length of its insertion. Unfortunately, the fuse with side

spit isn't nearly as tough as the fuse that only has end spit. If you have a

choice of fuse types, you can make your selection according to what you have

available. Fuse with mostly end spit is colored red, while fuse with a good

amount of side spit is colored green. (And I'll bet you thought it was just a

decoration!)





                        Black Match and Quick Match



These items have nothing to do with the matches you strike to light your

fireworks. In the jargon of pyrotechnics, match is a simple fuse made around a

string core. Black match is used much like you would use ordinary fuse. That

is, it gives a time delay before the firework actually goes off. You should

want this to happen most of the time. Quick match is just the opposite. It

burns from end to end very quickly. This is used where you want to start

several fireworks at once, but light only a single fuse. This happens most

often in commercial fireworks displays, where a large array of various colored

flares (lances, in pyrotechnic lingo) must all be lit together to form a

picture of some sort on a wooden framework set on the ground. You may not have

much need for quick match, but it's interesting information, and if you know

why it works you don't cause it to happen accidentally.



To make black match, you start with cotton twine. Different

thicknesses will give different results. Thicker twine will hold more powder

and will burn better, but heavy cord is too much. Try as many kinds as you can.

Avoid synthetic fibers; they can keep your match from working properly. If you

aren't sure wether or not the twine is synthetic, try to burn a small length of

it. Cotton will burn with a tiny flame and leave a very mundane ash. Synthetics

will clearly melt as they burn.



The prime ingredient of black match is meal powder. This is the name used in

the pyrotechnic field for an unprocessed gunpowder mixture. You can just powder

the ingredients by hand in a mortar and pestle (do each one separately!) and

then just mix them in a plastic bowl. There's no need to use a powder mill, as

will be described below. The black match formulation consists of 10 parts meal

powder and one part of either gum arabic or dextrine. These are two different

types of glues, and you should make your selection based on the humidity. Gum

arabic is better in dry climates and dextrine is better in higher humidity. Add

water and stir the mix until all the grains are wet. It will probably take a

bit of work to get it spread all around, as the fine dust likes to form dry

patches. After you think you've got it all damp, let it all sit for a few

minutes so that any dry areas too small to see will have a chance for the

moisture to soak in. After this, add lots more water and a bit of alcohol stir

until you have a disgusting black mush. The amounts of liquid will be roughly a

pint of water and an ounce of alcohol for every pound of meal powder, but you

may need a bit more or less, depending on the thickness of the string you use.

Don't take these proportions as an indication of the size of your first batch,

though. Start small.



Take a 2 or 3 foot length of the string and stir it up in the mush, squishing

it in so as to get it completely soaked. Slowly draw it out, dust it with some

dry meal powder and hang it to dry. Be careful while stirring, making sure that

you don't wind the string into knots. If you do, discard the string and start

again. Since this piece of garbage will become very flammable when it dries

out, I'd suggest either burying it or cutting it into shorter lengths and

flushing it down the can.



Don't hang up these things anywhere there's an open flame or a chance of a

spark. If one goes off, the sparks it spits off should have a reasonably good

chance of setting off any others hanging nearby, and if you don't end up

starting a fire, you'll at least lose a lot of hard work in a hurry. If you

need longer lengths of this stuff, you'll have to modify your technique, but be

assured it's been done by others, and you can too. As I've never needed more

than a few feet at a time, I can't speak from experience, though. Just use your

head and you'll surely work out a good technique.



This material, when dry, is black match, and will burn as a crude fuse. If you

try to bend it, the powder will crumble off, leaving spot where the fuse may go

out. Obviously, you can't use this everywhere you'd use waterproof safety fuse,

but there are times where it's useful.



All right then, if this stuff is so fragile, why not enclose it in a sort of

tube, to beef it up? That should protect it from crumbling, right? Well, it'll

certainly protect it, but it will also act entirely different. The match will

burn erratically, sometimes normally, sometimes in fast jumps. If the tube is

wide enough, say, 3/16 to 1/4 inch inside, the sparks that the burning powder

spits out will fly down the tube, igniting more powder, and causing the flame

to flash from one end of the tube to the other in almost no time at all. This

is called Quick Match and the tubes can be made by rolling a few layers of

newspaper over a 1/4 inch steel rod and quickly pulling the tubes off to dry.

You can then run a length of black match through the tube, and wherever you

want to attatch a firework to the tube, just poke a small hole and insert a

piece of black match.



Don't try to wrap a tighter tube around a piece of black match to try to

strengthen it. You won't be able to count on any sort of predictable behavior

out of the thing, and if you were counting on having a little time to head for

cover and the flame just flashes through the tube, well, that could abruptly

change your plans for the next few months. Safety fuse isn't hard to get and

it's not all that expensive. Use it where it's needed.



If you absolutely can't get safety fuse, you can coat the black match with

spray on plastic, available from handicraft stores, and when that's dry, brush

on a layer of liquid rubber mold compound, which you can often get from the

same place. One or more layers of the rubber will keep the powder from

crackling off, but absolutely don't skip the spray on plastic, first. The

plastic will put a temporary waterproof coating on the powder, which is needed

since the liquid rubber is water based, and will wet the powder and then dry on

the surface, sealing in the water. Such fuse would be very likely to go out at

an inopportune time. Feel free to experiment with various brush on varnishes as

a waterproofing, but the convenience of spray application has many advantages.





                              Firecracker Fuse



The tiny firecrackers that come in packs of 20 or more, all braided together,

show the most unusual fuses. A thin tissue tube that has been somehow filled

with the tiniest string of powder. Most texts on fuse give this item a quick

mention as being difficult to make and suggest that their authors tried to do

it and gave up. As it turns out, these are not all that difficult to make once

you get the procedure right. We'll start out making a fuse that's about twice

as thick as those tiny things, and as you develop the proper technique, you'll

be able to scale it down to make something that looks and acts like the real

thing. Most attemps fail when the individual starts out trying to make the fuse

as thin as the commercial version, and eventually gives up. What you really

need to do is first develop the basic skills on something larger. After that,

it's easy to work your way down. To be honest, this kind of fuse is not widely

useful considering the time needed to make it, but for those times when you do

have a use for it, this knowlege can be very handy.



It's very important to start with the right kind of paper. The paper used in

the orient is not availabe here, but reasonable substitutes can be found.

What's needed must be tissue-thin, yet fairly firm and strong. The papers used

in facial tissues and toilet paper are far too flimsy. The real dedicated model

airplane builders who work in balsa wood have used various tissues, and one

material, called silkspan, can get reasonable results. But a perfectly adequate

paper can be scrounged for free. That crackly kind of tissue paper that's used

by stores to pack clothing into gift boxes so that it doesn't flop around in

the box will work just fine. If you don't know what I'm talking about, it's

time you graduated up from blue jeans and T-shirts.



You'll have a difficult time of it if you don't start out by making or getting

a few simple tools. The first item you'll need is a piece of bent sheet metal

or a piece of metal angle. Angle is sturdier and is easier to use. The item

should be about 8-10 inches long. If you use sheet metal, make it about 2

inches wide and bend it down the middle along its length. You should have a

long trough with an angle of 90-100 degrees. Next, you'll need a cradle to hold

the trough so that the bend can be at the lowest point. Two strips of wood,

attatched to a base, will do the job. Finally, you'll need tiny, spoonlike

tools for dispensing and spreading the powder. Some biological supply houses

sell a stainless steel spatula that's ideal. It consists of a thin metal rod

about the thickness of a coat hanger, with one end flattened out into a 1/4

inch wide paddle that's great for spooning out tiny amounts of powder. The

other side has a more pointy paddle that makes it much easier to spread out the

powder.



Make a weak glue by dissolving a bit of dextrine in water. Find a SHARP pair of

scissors and cut out some pieces of the crackly tissue about 3 inches long and

3/4 inch wide. Get pieces that have no wrinkles. The pieces should be quite

straight, which you'll have trouble doing if the scissors are not really sharp.

Fold the tissue along its length, as shown;



              |<----------------- 3 inches ------------------>|

              |                                               |

                                                                    Ø/

               -----------------------------------------------  ----------

              |                                               |  1/4 inch

   ---------- |-----------------------------------------------| ----------

       /Ø     |                          /                    |     /Ø

    1/2 inch  |                         /                     |

       Ø/     |                fold here                      |

   ----------  -----------------------------------------------



Unfold the sheet and set it down into the trough, as shown in the cross

section. The picture is angled incorrectly, since typewritten characters give

only a limited ability to show graphics. The trough should look like an

"arrowhead" pointing downward.





                                                                     /

                                                                    /

                                                                 / /

                                                                / /

                                                           ... / /

                                         powder ------>  .... / /

                                                      ...... / /

                  paper ---> _______________________________/ /

sheet metal -----> __________________________________________/  <---- First

or metal angle                                                        fold





Use the wider of the spoon tools to put a crude line of freshly mixed meal

powder along the length of the fold. Next use the pointier tool to try to

spread the powder out evenly. A few properly placed taps should cause the

powder to spread out uniformly. This works much better if the trough is made of

angle instead of sheet metal. It's not likely to work at all if the meal powder

is a day or more old, since any humidity will probably have started it to cake

together. It's difficult to describe how much powder to put in, but it's easy

to describe what it will look like when it's done. Lift the paper out of the

trough and refold the tissue, holding in the powder. Once folded, the powder

should fill the folded section about halfway.



   _________________________________________________________

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |_________________________________________________________|

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |       Crease and

  |                                                         | <---- fold here

  | ******************************************************* |

  | ********************* powder ************************** |

  ----------------------------------------------------------- <--- First

                                                                    fold



Next, crease the paper right above the powder and fold it upward, enclosing the

powder in a second fold. This may take a little practice, but it's not as hard

to do as it might first appear.



   _________________________________________________________

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |                                                         |

  |_________________________________________________________|

  | ******************************************************* | <--- First

  | ********************* powder ************************** |       fold

  ----------------------------------------------------------- <--- Second

                                                                    fold



Next, roll the folded powder section up into the remaining paper. Don't worry

if it's not perfectly smooth, but try the best you can. Give the slender tube

you've made a gentle, rolling twist. Don't twist it too tight, or you'll rip

it. When it's about as thin as it's going to get, dip your finger in the

water/dextrine mix, and quickly run it along the length of the fuse. Be careful

not to use too much. It should not be soaked, just dampened along one side.

Leaving the fuse twisted, set it down with a small weight on each end to keep

the twist in the fuse. The weights will flatten the ends, and when it's dry

you'll want to cut off at least 1/4 inch from each side. These parts won't have

enough powder.



You can experiment with making longer lengths of fuse. Three inches is a

reasonable size to learn on, and you'll probably be able to add another inch or

two, though you may not find the extra effort to be worth it. It's better to

practice making thinner fuse. What you've just made is probably about twice as

thick as is found in commercial packs of firecrackers. Work your way down to

papers only 1/2 inch wide, using a smaller amount of powder. You are now an

expert fusemaker.





                              Processing Gunpowder



Gunpowder is one of those items that every budding pyro knows something about,

but few really understand. The standard formula shows this to be 75% Potassium

Nitrate, 15% Charcoal, and 10% sulfur. But just powdering and then mixing these

ingredients makes a powder that's just a weak parody of real gunpowder. Real

gunpowder is made using certain commercial processing methods that make it burn

much more fiercely. While we can't copy these methods exactly, we can make a

pretty decent approximation that can be used in place of gunpowder in most

fireworks formulas. By the way, the unprocessed mixture that most people think

of as gunpowder is known in the pyrotechnic trade as "meal powder".



One secret of good gunpowder is in making the individual ingredients as finely

powdered as possible. Just running them around in a mortar and pestle for a few

minutes won't do it. The other secret of good powder is to mix the ingredients

thoroughly. Both of these must be done better than can be done by hand. Simple

mechanical means will be used.



If you've ever looked at commercial gunpowder, you've noticed that it comes in

rock-hard granules of various sizes. It looks nothing like the gray meal powder

you're probably used to making. If the ingredients are properly ground and

mixed, then a tiny amount of water can be added (just enough to moisten it all)

and the wet mass is pressed into a cake about 1/2 inch thick to drive out any

air that may remain. The cake is kept pressed until it's dried solid and is

very hard. This may take several days to a week. During this time, the moisture

in the mix has dissolved a tiny bit of the Potassium Nitrate, which is very

soluble in water. When the particles are tiny enough and the air between the

particles is driven out, the Potassium Nitrate will actually RECRYSTALLIZE

AROUND the particles of Sulfur and Charcoal, and will become very hard. It is

then crushed with wooden tools (or brass or aluminum tools -- no iron or steel

-- it can produce sparks!!!) and the particles are sorted by size by running

them through various mesh sized screens.



Mixing and powdering the ingredients requires you to make or buy a simple

machine. Happily, the same machine can be used for both operations. The machine

is a gemstone tumbler, and for small amounts of powder, a 3 lb. tumbler is

about right. This will allow making 1/2 pound batches of powder. The reason a 3

lb. tumbler is being used for mere half pound loads, is that it will also

contain about 2 pounds of brass pellets that you'll have to cut from half inch

brass bar stock into 1/2 inch lengths. Don't cut the brass by hand with a

hacksaw. If you have access to a power hacksaw, use that, otherwise, find a

local machine shop that can do the job for you. You'll be glad you did, trust

me. While bars of iron or steel are more readily available and cheaper, they

will also make sparks and blow up your powder mill. Brass won't spark at all.

Don't use anything else. After your pellets are cut, you'll want to smooth off

the burrs on a belt sander or, shudder, by hand filing. This is all a lot of

work, but you only have to do it once.



If you want to try making your own tumbler, you'll want to be rolling a soft

plastic bottle about a quart in volume. Don't even think of using metal, glass,

or hard plastic. In either case, an explosion would send deadly shrapnel

flying in all directions. While the hard plastic might not be quite as deadly

as metal, it has the added disadvantage of not showing up in an X-Ray. Think

about it.



The bottle should roll at perhaps 10-12 RPM. The usual way to roll a bottle for

mixing purposes is to have a roller attatched to a low speed motor, and another

free rolling roller a couple of inches away. When the bottle is placed on top

of, and parallel to the two rollers, all three will turn. Don't forget that

electric motors make sparks and sparks can touch off powder. Make the shaft

from the motor to the roller as long as you can, enclose the motor as best you

can, and keep EVERYTHING as clean as you possibly can.



If you buy a gemstone tumbler, make sure it has a solid rubber barrel. There

are metal barrels available, but you should realize by now why you'd avoid that

kind. Some cheap tumblers have plastic barrels. Again, you should avoid hard

plastic.



Once you have the proper equipment, put the brass pellets into the barrel and

dump in the Potassium Nitrate. Now, run the mill for four (yes, I said four)

hours. The Potassium Nitrate must be quite dry, or you'll be wasting a lot of

effort for nothing. It's safe to warm it in a 300 degree oven for a few hours

if it contains moisture, but you'll want to let it cool down in a closed

container before you mix it with anything. Since the Potassium Nitrate will

start caking on a humid day, you may wish to select a dry day before you begin.

After you're done, remove the Potassium Nitrate and put it in a SEALED

container. If you don't do this, the stuff will begin caking from any traces of

humidity, and the final material will actually be less finely powdered than you

want. Next, put in the charcoal, and run it for two hours. Once charcoal is

powdered that finely, you'll make thoroughly nasty black dust clouds when you

try to pour it, so don't take it out of the mill until everything's done. Next,

add the Potassium Nitrate back in and the Sulfur, which normally comes finely

powdered. Now all three ingredients will be in the mill and you should run it

all for six (!!!) hours.



These times are really minimum times if you want to make decent powder. You'll

find that the powder will be much fiercer if you double all these mixing times,

but the time needed will start becoming impractical. Once this is all done, you

should take out the powder, add enough moisture to get it to cake together and

press it into a flat cake. I've had some success with two heavy boards held

together on one end with a wide hinge. These swing together leaving a half inch

gap between them and are clamped together on their free ends with a metal

C-Clamp. The boards should have several layers of waterproof varnish,

otherwise they'll start warping, they'll leach out some of the dissolved

Potassium Nitrate from your powder, and they'll probably become much more

flammable than you'd like them to be. Let the thing sit in a dry, cool place

for a couple of weeks. It should be away from any sparks or flames, including

electric motors, and should be far enough away from other flammable materials

that you won't have a fire on your hand if it accidentally ignites.



After it's dry and hard, crush and screen it, and you're done.



One final word on this. The extreme solubility of Potassium Nitrate allows all

the recrystallization that makes good gunpowder possible. But recrystallization

is a problem when it causes the Potassium Nitrate to cake in the container. If

you get it in jars, you'll probably have to scrape or chip out the chunks you

need. If you buy it in 100 lb sacks, you'll have to break pieces off with a

sledge hammer. Don't forget that this unpleasant property also happens at the

microscopic level, making tiny particles clump together into larger ones, as

the clock ticks. Time is your enemy when you need to have your Potassium

Nitrate in a fine powder. Use it as quickly as you can once you've powdered it.

Don't powder it today for use tomorrow. Even if it looks okay the next day, you

can be sure you've lost some of the work you've put into it, and that the

performance of your final product will suffer.



                                Rolling Casings



This is one of those very important skills that always seem to be ignored in

files that describe the pyrotechnic arts. Yet, the properly built casing will

make the difference between sucess and failure of your creations. For most

casings, brown Kraft paper will work very well. Everyone who's in any way

involved with modern civilization is familiar with this stuff as the brown

paper bags used by supermarkets, hardware stores, and many other businesses.

It's tough and will absorb the glue, making a tough casing. While stores in

many areas are switching to plastic bags, it should be possible to save enough

bags to meet your needs. If not, you can buy the paper in large rolls from

paper supply houses. While it comes in various thicknesses, choose something

that's comparable to the paper bags, which seem to be well suited for our

needs.



While the simplest casings are just made by rolling a piece of paper over a

rod, and then sliding it off and gluing the end closed, these are not of

very much use. Most casings need to have glue between the layers of paper

to make them hard, have to be cut to the proper length while they're still

wet and mushy from the glue, and you have to use care not to glue the

casing to the rod you're winding it on.



You have two choices as to the type of rod to use to roll your casings. A

metal bar will last longest, won't swelll from the moisture in the glue,

and won't easily stick to a stray glue droplet, but is more expensive,

takes more work to cut to size, and will quickly dull the knife blade that

will be used to cut the casing. A wooden dowel is cheap, easy to cut to

length, available in a wide variety of sizes. It will also have to be

replaced more frequently if you cut your casings while they're on it,

because the knife blade will quickly cut deep grooves into the wood. It

also requires extra care to keep from gluing the casing to it. We'll

describe the procedure for wrapping a casing around a wooden dowel. If you

choose to use a metal rod, you can ignore the extra cautions that using

wood will require.



Start with a sheet of paper. One dimension will be about an inch and a half

larger than the length of your casing. The other dimension will have to be

learned from trial and error, and will have to do with how thick you want

the casing wall to be. Wrap one and a half turns of the paper around the

dowel and give the dowel a twist so that the paper is wrapped tightly with

no slack or wrinkles. Unwrap about a quarter turn, enough so that it still

remains tightly wrapped but just barely so. Next, put glue on the paper

near the crack where the wrapped portion meets loose portion and start

wrapping the paper by rolling the dowel over a flat surface. If you're

using a bottle of white glue for this, the long line of glue will glob up

and travel along as you roll the casing.



Whenever an area runs low on glue, squirt some more in the depleted area.

If you're using a liquid paste, you'll instead want to apply it with a

brush. In either case, don't let the glue get any closer than a half inch

from the ends of the tube. This is particularly important if you're using a

wooden dowel, as any glue that runs out the end will make it difficult or

impossible to remove the casing. Keep rolling and applying glue until the

paper is all used up. If your casing isn't thick enough, it's easy to fix.

Just glue on another piece, keep applying the glue, and keep rolling.



Once you're done rolling, take a sharp knife and place it about 3/4 of an

inch from one end, at right angles to the tube. Press down and roll back

and forth, and you'll cut away the unglued end of the tube, along with a

little of the glued portion. Slide the piece off and do the same to the

other side. With a little practice, you can make the knife cut go around in

a perfect circle rather than a slightly ragged spiral, and the end of the

casing will be smooth. As quickly as you can, slide the tube off of the

rod, and set it aside to dry. Besides the danger of gluing the tube to the

rod, there is also the problem that the tube will shrink slightly as it

dries, so don't leave it on the rod any longer than you have to.



There are a few things to think about; the wetness in the glue will quickly

dull the knife blade. Wipe it off immediately after cutting an end. It's

not a bad idea to use an X-Acto knife, which uses cheap, disposable blades.

You may also find that a whetstone is useful in extending the life of your

blades. Another thing to consider is that even if no glue touches your

dowel, it will still absorb traces of moisture and after you've wound a

couple of casings, it will be much easier for you to accidentally glue the

casing to the dowel. It's a good idea to have several dowels and use them

in rotation so that each has time to dry off before it gets used again.



After you've had some practice rolling casings, you'll find it fairly easy

to roll your casings on one dowel, slide it off before you cut off the

unglued ends, slide the end onto a second dowel that's been sanded down to

make it just a bit smaller, and use that to cut the ends off. This way, you

won't cut knife marks into your good rolling dowels, and when the ends of

your cutting dowels get too ragged you can just cut them off and use the

fresh end for cutting. You needn't put the cutting dowel more than an inch

into the casing before cutting it. This will reduce the chances of getting it

stuck.



                                   Salutes



These are among the simplest pyrotechnic devices to make. There are many ways

to make them, some more dangerous than others. When you get right down to it,

there's no such thing as a safe salute; if one of these goes off in your hand,

you'll lose fingers. But if you build them properly and use some common sense

when firing them, there's little risk.



There are several things to always avoid.

First, only paper casings should be used. Metal, plastic or glass can send out

lethal shrapnel, while hard paper will simply throw light shreds of

paper while being just as loud. The second point is the end plugs used.

Commercially made salutes used to use either a cast epoxy or the Sodium

Silicate/Calcium Carbonate glue mentioned earlier. Either of these will send

out eye piercing shrapnel. Wooden plugs, while easily cut from dowels, can also

put an eye out. But good paper end plugs can be made that won't hurt anyone.



The third danger point is the powder formulation. Some old books give

compositions using Chlorates or even Chlorates with Sulfur. While these are the

easiest and probably the cheapest, they're also very dangerous. Weingart's

"Pyrotechnics", published in the 1930's, states that 90% of the injuries in

fireworks factories involved Chlorate/Sulfur mixtures. Weingart's point was

that you should be extra careful with these. It apparently never occurred to

those folks that 90% of the accidents could then have been eliminated by using

different formulations. Perchlorates and aluminum dust are the "modern"

solution to this problem. They're not the cheapest, but they're just as good

and are far safer.



The fourth problem is the small wad of hard, black crud that's placed where the

fuse meets the casing. It's referred to as priming, and while it serves as a

glue to hold the fuse in place, it's mostly black powder and will flare up when

the flame from the fuse reaches it. Rough treatment of the fuse will get it

bent at that point, and that's where the fuse is most likely to go out. But if

it does, it will first have lit the priming, and that's enough to relight the

fuse. It kind of makes the salute more reliable. While it's more likely to go

off properly when lit, it's also more likely to go off by accident. Any stray

spark can set off the priming, and if one salute in a box goes off, it will

easily light the priming on the others and set them off too. Priming would have

been a good idea if it weren't so dangerous. But anyone with half a brain won't

beat his salutes around so as to damage the fuse, and we can use ordinary glue

instead of priming. Avoid using priming, or any salutes you find that use it.



We'll look into making a salute that's just a little smaller than an M-80. It's

fairly easy for a beginner and uses less powder, for those of you who can only

get access to a limited supply, or are caniballizing powder out of packs of

commercial firecrackers. It still makes a fairly respectable bang, and is

fairly easily scaled up for those who want a really big boom.





                        *

                 fuse-> *

                        *

                        *

                 glue   *

                     Ø  *

                       /*Ø

 casing --->  ==========*==========

              --.       *       .--

    end         |       *       |

     cap -----> |       *       |

                |.......*.......|

                |.......*.powder|

              --'...............›--

              ====================



Start with a 7/16 inch dowel, about 8 inches long. Using the glueing techniques

discussed above, take a 6 inch square sheet of kraft paper and roll it into a

solid casing. Cut off the 3/4 inch pieces on the ends, or perhaps only 1/2 inch

pieces, if your glueing skills are good enough. When in doubt, cut off more. If

the ends don't contain sufficient glue they won't be strong enough to hold the

end caps sturdily. Cut the remaining tube into pieces that are from 1 1/4

inches to 1 1/2 inches long. Take them off the dowel and set them aside to dry.



Next, we'll make the end caps. Get a 5/16 inch dowel (whatever the inside

diameter of the casing, this will always be about 1/8 inch less. This will

allow it to be about 1/16 inch thick, as you'll see) and four squares of kraft

paper. One square should be about 1 inch on a side, and the other three should

be about 3/4 inch. Place the larger square flat on the tip of the dowel,

centered as well as you can, and pull it down over the dowel to form a cap.

Place a hefty drop of glue on the tip of this cap and rub one of the smaller

squares over this drop. When one side of the square is fairly well covered,

pull it down tightly over the first. Don't worry about keeping the corners

alligned; they'll be cut off in a moment, anyway. Pull the last two squares

down over the cap one at a time, smearing a drop of glue each time. Make sure

that this cap is squeezed tightly. If you wish, you can make sure by

momentarily wrapping a piece of heavy cord around it. The cord is always a good

idea for larger end caps, but its optional here. Next, using the X Acto knife,

use the same rolling motion we use for casings to cut off the ragged end,

leaving a cap that's 3/16 to 1/4 inch high. It should be easy to slide this cap

into the casing as shown in the picture, though the fit should be a bit snug.



The first cap is best glued in while the casing is still wet. Make sure it's

well glued, and then pinch the wet casing and end cap inward at 6 or 7 points

around the circle with a pair of needle nosed pliers. With the end of the

casing pinched in, it will be possible to put a slightly undersized dowel into

the casing, and smash the pinched end down against a hard surface, causing the

casing to curl around the end cap. When dry, this will never blow out.



When the casing is dry, drill the fuse hole and insert a piece of safety fuse

long enough to almost touch the opposite wall of the casing and to extend AT

LEAST an inch from the casing. Glue it in place and let it dry.



The casing should be filled no more than 1/3 full of loose powder. Any more and

you'll actually get less of an explosion. I prefer to use 1 part dark pyro

aluminum dust to 3 parts Potassium perchlorate. Most any flashpowder may be

substituted here, but they tend to require metal in dust, not powdered, form.

Gunpowder won't work at all here. Once the powder is in, a second end cap is

liberally glued in and the ends pinched in as well as you can. Be extra

careful, as attatching the second end cap turns the thing into an explosive

device. Give it a day or two to dry completely.



It should be pointed out that most of the explosive force of these things is

dissipated within a couple of inches of the casing. This is why people often

lose fingers or parts of their hands, but never their wrists. If you can make a

wooden fixture to hold the salute while inserting the end plug with a wooden

tool, you'll be safely distant from most of an accidental explosion. Safety

glasses are also a good idea.



If made properly, you'll get a decent bang, the casing will split along

its length, usually through the fuse hole, and the second end cap will blow

out. The first cap that got smashed in place never seems to come off. If only

one cap blows out, it wasn't in tight enough, and the bang will be pretty lame.

If you do your test firings in a little pit, 1 foot deep and no more than a

foot wide, you'll usually be able to recover the fragments to determine how

well you're doing. After mastering these you can try making larger ones.



Since salutes with any respectable amount of powder are illegal in all 50

states, those you buy are made in clandestine factories, with little regard to

safety. They're made cheap, fast and can contain all sorts of dangerous

mixtures. Because factories can be found by tracing the purchases of certain

chemicals, salutes often contain whatever garbage was available at the time.

Besides Chlorate/Sulfur mixes, some have been found to contain Picrates, which

can remove your hand by just shaking them. What's the point? Any large salutes

you buy were probably made by people who wanted to make a fast buck and were

cared more about evading the feds than assuring your safety. If you want to

make a big bang, it's probably safer to make your own, where you know what

you're playing with. It's strange, but true.



---



Well, thats one of the nicest pyrotechnics files I've seen written.  If

anyone has any part above IV if it exists, then please forward it to us.

Thank you to the sender of this article on the net.

Chester - thanks for the node.

Starchilde - that makes 5 in 2 dayz, including the 50th! heh.

Steve - thank you for use of your system.

its Friday, 'round 3pm, and I'm outta here. Take it easy folks.

-JUDGE DREDD/NIA



                            Guardian Of Time

                              Judge Dredd

                      Ignorance, Theres No Excuse.

                  For questions or comments write to:

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